|Thin, plywood patterns were made for the side benches.|
…and cleaned up the cut with a compass plane.
After going to all the trouble to fit the benches tight to the hull, it was suggested by some of the folks on the WoodenBoat forum that I should leave a space, or cut scuppers at the hull to drain any loose water that would collect there in a puddle (think wet butt). I decided that was a smart move, and scribed a fat quarter of an inch off the outboard edges of the benches, but left the notches at the frames snug. I also made the fit a little loose where the benches butt the thwarts. I was afraid of future swelling across the grain of the thwarts, pushing against the frame-heads and possibly doing some damage. I cut a bevel on the undersides of all the parts to reduce their apparent thickness, and finished off the edges top and bottom with a hand-cut round over. I prefer cutting this by hand, rather than with a router. Its faster, quieter, and produces an elegant transition from square to radiused edge. The last piece to get out was the dagger trunk cap, which notches around the dagger opening, and butts into the forward thwart.
|The benches were cut back a little, to drain water.|
|The front edge is beveled on the underside to reduce the apparent thickness. The screws provide little stands to facilitate finishing both sides of the piece at once.|
|This little sander is ideal for working in tight places.|
|The middle thwart alone has 8 separate pieces!|
|The furniture, with sealer.|
|Nice "plum pudding" figure in this Spanish Cedar.|
|The thwart knees are cherry.|
|Sikaflex bedding compound is applied to the parts.|
|The parts and the hull were taped off prior to installation. The squeeze-out is evident here.|
|The finished installation.|
|The before mentioned dagger trunk cap.|