|The lug yawl sail plan is finalized .|
Its hard to believe that almost a year has passed since the last post. Once spring comes around, there is so much work to do at the club in preparation for the sailing season, and then the season itself (which this year continued on until nearly Thanksgiving). Six months go by without any progress on the peapod! And so I look forward to the holidays as a time to re-connect with boat building.I had always intended to rig this boat as a lug yawl, and finally got around to drawing up the sail plan. I also decided to substitute a dagger board for the pivoting centerboard. The dagger board is lighter, simpler, and takes up less space than a centerboard, and when rowing, a plug can be dropped in the slot to eliminate speed robbing turbulence in the trunk. This conversion is not as simple as it might seem, as any changes to rig or underbody can affect the balance of the boat, producing a heavier than normal weather helm, or a possibly dangerous lee helm. The thwart layout and rowing positions determine, to some extent, the position of the dagger trunk, as thwart and trunk are mutually supportive structurally. Once the balance point of the hull is arrived at (by balancing a scaled cutout of the underbody on an awl and marking the point), the rig is drawn and its geometric center is found. I played around with mast placement, rake, sail shape, etc. and made many back and forth adjustments with the sails and the dagger board until I arrived at what I hope will be a well balanced boat.
So its on to the interior! I built the dagger trunk first, and made it a good four inches longer fore and aft than the board itself, still hedging my bets as regards the balance until the sailing trials. I'll fill in the excess slot once I determine the exact position of the board. The trunk is so simple! Just two posts, which extend through the plank keel, two sides, and two bed logs cut to the slight curve of the inside bottom.
|The completed trunk, upside down. The posts will extend through the keel.|
|Slot pattern for a long top-bearing router bit.|
|A wedge will be epoxied in to fill the gap.|
I blue-taped the parts of the slot that must remain clean, and then glued and clamped the trunk into the boat, being careful to keep it plumb athwartship.
|The area of the slot to remain clean is masked off.|
|The trunk is clamped to the boat through the slot.|
The frames are next, and I chose to use a futtock style frame of spanish cedar, glued up in halves with short pieces to optimize grain direction. I settled on 5 frames, built to span sheer to sheer and set perpendicular to the centerline like a bulkhead, and joggled to fit the laps.
|The first layer of the spanish cedar frame-halves.|
|Layer two spans the previous butt-joints.|
|A thin ply pattern is hot-glued to small blocks exactly in the frames intended location.|
|Straight-edged strips fit snugly to the planks.|
|The shape is traced onto the glued-up frame blank, and sawn out.|
|The frame fits tight on one edge, bust is open in way of the bevels.|
|Beveled wedges are glued in.|
|Before the frames are glued in, the hull is taped off for easy clean up.|
|Floor board patterns were made at the same time as the timbers.|
|A finished floor timber, ready to install (note the limbers).|
|Floor timbers are glued into the boat. This completes the framing!|
|The inwales (sheer clamps) are scarfed to length.|
|Inwales are clamped to the sheer. It takes a lot of clamps!|
|Different boat! This shows the deck framing I like to use on Cricket.|