tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8479843058557778942024-03-13T19:23:18.187-04:00 SMALL CRAFT WARNINGJimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-9882832270897358862015-04-12T14:42:00.000-04:002015-04-12T14:42:10.028-04:00Point Comfort 23- Part 2The strong back was next, and for this four by twenty four foot structure, we used fir 2 x 8’s. We picked out the best construction grade stock we could find, and jointed one edge of each, then ripped them to a common width.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kwNBQFAnPR4/VSq26H6yeZI/AAAAAAAADY4/NEUvOxKj0Nw/s1600/strongback1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kwNBQFAnPR4/VSq26H6yeZI/AAAAAAAADY4/NEUvOxKj0Nw/s1600/strongback1.jpg" height="320" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Jointing an edge of the 2x8's.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-23BpDAvCm9w/VSq26fBJ_FI/AAAAAAAADY8/53ojOtGm9sQ/s1600/strongback2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-23BpDAvCm9w/VSq26fBJ_FI/AAAAAAAADY8/53ojOtGm9sQ/s1600/strongback2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Deciding which piece goes where, based on straightness and flatness.</i></td></tr>
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We set up and screwed together the strong back, again squaring the assembly carefully. We then braced the strong back to the trestles with plenty of diagonal bracing so the whole business is rigid, then cut notches in the center of all cross pieces, through which we stretched a taut center string line. this will be used to line up the molds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--XWAc2jbAMc/VSq26cjJ8QI/AAAAAAAADZI/J5qQmE1lseU/s1600/strongback3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--XWAc2jbAMc/VSq26cjJ8QI/AAAAAAAADZI/J5qQmE1lseU/s1600/strongback3.jpg" height="262" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cutting the center line notches. Bracing can be seen here.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5QjmyNr7hI/VSq26uOXG_I/AAAAAAAADZA/tuxBwS23HEw/s1600/strongback4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5QjmyNr7hI/VSq26uOXG_I/AAAAAAAADZA/tuxBwS23HEw/s1600/strongback4.jpg" height="236" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Stretch it tight!</i></td></tr>
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We chose particle board for the molds (I hate MDF dust), and I had one team laying out stations from the full-size patterns, and another team cutting the molds with our home-made track saw. This is a chine hull, so all the cuts are straight lines.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQDV3uZKe4g/VSq4Zh6aC7I/AAAAAAAADZs/aq2Iosfetwc/s1600/layout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KQDV3uZKe4g/VSq4Zh6aC7I/AAAAAAAADZs/aq2Iosfetwc/s1600/layout.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Howie and Javier lay out the molds from full size patterns. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qXOhWhQBIXM/VSq4bZxkPLI/AAAAAAAADak/hecL_RGqL_Q/s1600/tracksaw1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qXOhWhQBIXM/VSq4bZxkPLI/AAAAAAAADak/hecL_RGqL_Q/s1600/tracksaw1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pat Daniels runs the home made track saw.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6DhLkgq-fgk/VSq4bhELcWI/AAAAAAAADao/WDmgEFG0V9c/s1600/tracksaw2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6DhLkgq-fgk/VSq4bhELcWI/AAAAAAAADao/WDmgEFG0V9c/s1600/tracksaw2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Hans has taken over here. There were a lot of cuts!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YuBVKOKufU4/VSq4ZTL60AI/AAAAAAAADa8/yjpQVBCdvE8/s1600/crossties2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YuBVKOKufU4/VSq4ZTL60AI/AAAAAAAADa8/yjpQVBCdvE8/s1600/crossties2.jpg" height="226" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>John and Severn are setting up the cross ties.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The layout team was careful to mark the vertical center-line and waterline on both sides of each mold. Even with plenty of help, the molds were an all day project. The next day, we set all the molds up, using a laser to get the waterlines all in the right place, and a four foot level to get them plumb.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6dHirWTr2Gg/VSq4aAq5SYI/AAAAAAAADZ8/flviz2gGCvs/s1600/midshipmold2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6dHirWTr2Gg/VSq4aAq5SYI/AAAAAAAADZ8/flviz2gGCvs/s1600/midshipmold2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Midship mold goes in first.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PExEKdGsBbs/VSq4aJsaihI/AAAAAAAADaE/oGXTXBd-sWM/s1600/midshipmold1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PExEKdGsBbs/VSq4aJsaihI/AAAAAAAADaE/oGXTXBd-sWM/s1600/midshipmold1.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I don't know what that old man is saying.</i></td></tr>
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I always set up the midship mold first, spending the time to get it right and braced securely. We screwed 2 x 2’s across the strong back on the stations, then shimmed the molds to the laser and screwed them to the cross spalls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KjkeGA9rXOo/VSq4ap9oakI/AAAAAAAADaI/XMAeYlMNytA/s1600/moldlevel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KjkeGA9rXOo/VSq4ap9oakI/AAAAAAAADaI/XMAeYlMNytA/s1600/moldlevel.jpg" height="243" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The mold center line aligns with the string line on the strongback, and a laser is set to the comm DWL height.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MBG4162f7xU/VSq4a8-rYFI/AAAAAAAADaU/jCxjT7THKEE/s1600/moldsbrace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MBG4162f7xU/VSq4a8-rYFI/AAAAAAAADaU/jCxjT7THKEE/s1600/moldsbrace.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The molds are braced securely!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QUHA2abX6so/VSq4Znw9VsI/AAAAAAAADZw/wBFmoFbFy40/s1600/lostreshombres.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QUHA2abX6so/VSq4Znw9VsI/AAAAAAAADZw/wBFmoFbFy40/s1600/lostreshombres.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pat, Jim, and Hans.</i></td></tr>
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Each subsequent mold was braced back to the midship mold, and held the correct distance apart, 36” in this case. When the molds were set up, we couldn't resist springing a batten around the sheer and chine, to get a sense of the hull shape.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zyKj9dGH5E/VSq4YwyIY7I/AAAAAAAADZk/Cuwlf28Gnt0/s1600/batten2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zyKj9dGH5E/VSq4YwyIY7I/AAAAAAAADZk/Cuwlf28Gnt0/s1600/batten2.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></div>
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That’s where we are now. We have to cut out the stem, and fabricate the transom next, before setting up the permanent longitudinals. Stay tuned!<br />Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-63020467932066030692015-03-28T12:45:00.000-04:002015-03-28T12:45:13.944-04:00New Boat Project- The Point Comfort 23<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rtg5DQuJ3BI/VRa-gvXzXqI/AAAAAAAADVs/0aixQ41Fdic/s1600/moldsinsun.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rtg5DQuJ3BI/VRa-gvXzXqI/AAAAAAAADVs/0aixQ41Fdic/s1600/moldsinsun.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The new molds! Thanks to Howie for this photo.</i></td></tr>
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We could have chosen most anything as our inaugural project, but we’ve been talking about a bigger, better looking, more seaworthy boat to replace the thirteen foot Boston Whaler that we use as our race committee, sail instruction, and general yard boat. We need to be able to function safely in conditions that push the limits of the little whaler. That boat loves to gulp seawater over the bow. We looked at a lot of designs, including the nineteen foot semi dory from John Gardner, Carolina Skiff types, the Bateau Boats FS17, the Handy Billy 21, and finally the Point Comfort 23 from Doug Hylan. One important aspect of this building project will be to teach woodworking and boat building skills, and the use of hand and power tools to a group of interested people, some of whom have never seen a significant boat materialize from the ground up. We could have chosen a boat design that offered a CNC kit, but honestly, there’s not much to learn from a bunch of puzzle joints and fifteen gallons of epoxy. The Handy Billy was extremely appealing as an antidote to the kit boat route, but we felt like she wouldn’t offer us enough initial stability, good sea boat that she is. We need a stable platform and lowish topsides from which to work. I had looked before at the Point Comfort 18, but pretty as she is, she’s not enough boat for us. Then Doug Hylan introduced the 23, and we had found our project.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YtakeQrLYqA/VRa-ECPQT-I/AAAAAAAADVk/8z6smtjBW2g/s1600/PC23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YtakeQrLYqA/VRa-ECPQT-I/AAAAAAAADVk/8z6smtjBW2g/s1600/PC23.jpg" height="196" width="320" /></a></div>
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It’s a simple, rugged, quite pretty outboard derivation of a classic Chesapeake deadrise skiff. She’s got the straight stem and deep, narrow forefoot of the type, but designed for plywood construction over more or less typical longitudinals. The hull is heavily built from 3/4” meranti ply. The forefoot is cold molded from two layers of 3/8” ply with vertical seams staggered. Besides the chine timbers, clamps, and keelson, there is very little internal framing, other than floors, bulkheads, and deck beams. The heavy skin makes this possible. This boat has twice the displacement of the 18, and maybe four times the dry weight. She’s substantially built, to be sure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqSfIfuzNKc/VRa_127oryI/AAAAAAAADV4/HAkAtMtrY1g/s1600/presentation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqSfIfuzNKc/VRa_127oryI/AAAAAAAADV4/HAkAtMtrY1g/s1600/presentation.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A meeting was held to choose the boat design for our new project.</i></td></tr>
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We held a meeting at the club before Christmas, open to anyone interested in the project. I was gratified to fill the room with interested folks. I’ll admit to putting a little spin on the presentation, having already decided that I liked the PC23, but the idea was taken up with real enthusiasm. Doug Hylan has designed and built quite a few mid-size to large power boats, and I trust his eye and his design skills. I took the idea to our board of directors, with a preliminary budget, and was given the green light to proceed! Which is a good thing, because I had already bought the plans.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Aj5U90ux-pg/VRa_1x_62EI/AAAAAAAADV8/kYAD167OPFM/s1600/presentation2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Aj5U90ux-pg/VRa_1x_62EI/AAAAAAAADV8/kYAD167OPFM/s1600/presentation2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Our group met again to review the construction process.</i></td></tr>
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The first task in this project was to build a suitable strong back, which can be interesting on a very out of level dirt floor. I wanted to devise a system that would be rugged, but that would not be in the way when not actually building a boat, and which could be set up and adapted for any other boat. We went to concrete footings again, laying out three pairs of footings, about nine feet apart, put carefully in line and squared to each other. We dug holes and built 12” square forms which we lined up with a laser and strings, then poured the concrete. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sCnPj66Cg5Q/VRbA5aA1bjI/AAAAAAAADWI/SeYmQ6-lkdI/s1600/footingslayout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sCnPj66Cg5Q/VRbA5aA1bjI/AAAAAAAADWI/SeYmQ6-lkdI/s1600/footingslayout.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Laying out footings for the strong back.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pq3QFOpGSAk/VRbBeGwBJ9I/AAAAAAAADWY/dAk6p0x-Eeo/s1600/footingsdig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pq3QFOpGSAk/VRbBeGwBJ9I/AAAAAAAADWY/dAk6p0x-Eeo/s1600/footingsdig.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UGRS6wH3dls/VRbBeNROFSI/AAAAAAAADWQ/6Vw6KofYAnk/s1600/footingforms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UGRS6wH3dls/VRbBeNROFSI/AAAAAAAADWQ/6Vw6KofYAnk/s1600/footingforms.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The forms were laid out with a laser and string lines...</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4CK2sBUgHXY/VRbBeCquiyI/AAAAAAAADWU/sImojipBdqI/s1600/footingspour1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4CK2sBUgHXY/VRbBeCquiyI/AAAAAAAADWU/sImojipBdqI/s1600/footingspour1.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>And the concrete was poured.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After curing, we drilled out the concrete for threaded inserts (again
with the laser for set up) which we epoxied in. This was done in
sub-freezing temperatures, so we warmed the inserts in a pan on the wood
stove, and set up light bulbs on the concrete, which kept everything
warm overnight for a good epoxy cure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iNdejRkI5XI/VRbF9ZCWmZI/AAAAAAAADW0/E7zQt8lv0_8/s1600/bolt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iNdejRkI5XI/VRbF9ZCWmZI/AAAAAAAADW0/E7zQt8lv0_8/s1600/bolt.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Threaded insert with bolt.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IWD8X-TzSic/VRbF9eGsrkI/AAAAAAAADWw/Mrlw9Y_z654/s1600/insert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IWD8X-TzSic/VRbF9eGsrkI/AAAAAAAADWw/Mrlw9Y_z654/s1600/insert.jpg" height="316" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Threaded inserts were epoxied into the concrete.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r74T-w2YXYA/VRbIREsX0UI/AAAAAAAADXI/jPWJEc7WpTQ/s1600/heat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r74T-w2YXYA/VRbIREsX0UI/AAAAAAAADXI/jPWJEc7WpTQ/s1600/heat.jpg" height="320" width="287" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Locally applied heat cured the epoxy.</i></td></tr>
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Next we bolted in some 4 x 4 clips like we used on the bench legs, again checking the alignment with a laser. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImCYxDtWUjw/VRbI5ZS5wAI/AAAAAAAADXQ/VPUQpxdKTmM/s1600/laser2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ImCYxDtWUjw/VRbI5ZS5wAI/AAAAAAAADXQ/VPUQpxdKTmM/s1600/laser2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>4x4 clips are aligned with the laser...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvo6AANV2Rs/VRbF9CH1skI/AAAAAAAADWs/xO8f6gY9gCg/s1600/clip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bvo6AANV2Rs/VRbF9CH1skI/AAAAAAAADWs/xO8f6gY9gCg/s1600/clip.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>... and bolted down.</i></td></tr>
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We then switched the laser to give us a horizontal benchmark, measuring
the relative heights of each location, then cutting six legs to support 4
x 4 trestles, all at the same height. I like to take care at each step
to insure a level and square set up, because it makes the final shimming
of molds much easier. The trestle legs are all marked for their
individual locations. We can remove them, and their clips, and just put
the bolts in for an unobtrusive set up when not in use. For a smaller
boat, we might use only two of the trestles.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWn4FvM4Z3M/VRbI5S4ZQXI/AAAAAAAADXU/DRMdrd4K0gY/s1600/drillpress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YWn4FvM4Z3M/VRbI5S4ZQXI/AAAAAAAADXU/DRMdrd4K0gY/s1600/drillpress.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Chris drills clearance holes in the trestle legs for the bolt heads.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6J_8FwHC0j8/VRbYBeBmX3I/AAAAAAAADXw/A27ua7psf6M/s1600/IMG_5678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6J_8FwHC0j8/VRbYBeBmX3I/AAAAAAAADXw/A27ua7psf6M/s1600/IMG_5678.jpg" height="299" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The trestles were all custom cut to a common level benchmark.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hKz2mNZAvoo/VRbI5SvWDII/AAAAAAAADXY/lsAgjLKmJeU/s1600/trestles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hKz2mNZAvoo/VRbI5SvWDII/AAAAAAAADXY/lsAgjLKmJeU/s1600/trestles.jpg" height="255" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>And here they are. A level base to build our strong back on.</i></td></tr>
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Next time, we'll look at the strong back and molds. Thanks for looking in.<br /><br />
Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-17464667913770116242014-11-16T14:49:00.000-05:002014-11-16T15:00:40.975-05:00The Sebago Canoe Club Boat Shop<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T4H2JlsHu8I/VGkCQKuI1HI/AAAAAAAADTA/TLjFsqHtqrI/s1600/penguin4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T4H2JlsHu8I/VGkCQKuI1HI/AAAAAAAADTA/TLjFsqHtqrI/s1600/penguin4_web.jpg" height="320" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My first boat- 1986</i></td></tr>
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<br />
I’m gratified to have been a part of Sebago for these past twenty plus years. I’ve been a vocal proponent of a real boatbuilding program here for most of that time, and I’m happy to report that we are finally ready to move forward. The boat shop is largely done, though there will always be changes and improvements, but as of now we are fully functional. Many people have made significant contributions to the facility, both in the planning and in the construction, and I want to thank everyone involved, and a special thanks is due the Sebago Board of Directors for granting permission and allocating the funds to bring this about. Phil Giller was responsible for getting the roof put on, and that was a huge first step, for without that we’d still be working under a leaky tarp. And without John Wright’s vigilance we would never have gotten the tool room cleaned out and properly “exorcised”. Here's some pics of the new shop, several years in the making!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqLEaz8xGFc/VGj6cFXHq7I/AAAAAAAADRY/n2Uo98naeEU/s1600/boatshop1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lqLEaz8xGFc/VGj6cFXHq7I/AAAAAAAADRY/n2Uo98naeEU/s1600/boatshop1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The roof goes up spanning two containers.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rFqPzPvHabk/VGj6dU2zVEI/AAAAAAAADRg/uKXXDyhNXWA/s1600/boatshop4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rFqPzPvHabk/VGj6dU2zVEI/AAAAAAAADRg/uKXXDyhNXWA/s1600/boatshop4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Phil Giller was instrumental in getting this roof for us!</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XExAc6zJ57w/VGj6aiY7NgI/AAAAAAAADRQ/4TCmANw6WeM/s1600/boatshop3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XExAc6zJ57w/VGj6aiY7NgI/AAAAAAAADRQ/4TCmANw6WeM/s1600/boatshop3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Watch those wires!</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2j8Q8xrWQM/VGj7l57ALJI/AAAAAAAADRs/wG4x0m4SFCQ/s1600/stovehans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><br /><br /><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z2j8Q8xrWQM/VGj7l57ALJI/AAAAAAAADRs/wG4x0m4SFCQ/s1600/stovehans.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>We put in a stove.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHOLPcjChxU/VGj7qwNsRNI/AAAAAAAADR0/v-0No-sxoQw/s1600/laser1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHOLPcjChxU/VGj7qwNsRNI/AAAAAAAADR0/v-0No-sxoQw/s1600/laser1.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>And a workbench.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hP9IBdUJWN8/VGj723EF87I/AAAAAAAADR8/WwTUZSdmxKE/s1600/bench1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hP9IBdUJWN8/VGj723EF87I/AAAAAAAADR8/WwTUZSdmxKE/s1600/bench1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Workbench.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fvxewCmDm8/VGj73bUWLeI/AAAAAAAADSA/u2JS_0jtfA0/s1600/sara-laura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fvxewCmDm8/VGj73bUWLeI/AAAAAAAADSA/u2JS_0jtfA0/s1600/sara-laura.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>And we're operational!</i> <i>Sara and Laura restoring </i>THE NAVY.</td></tr>
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On tuesday evening, November the 18th from 7 to 9 pm, I will present a Power Point lecture on the building of traditional small craft. We’ll take a look at many boats that might be worthwhile projects to tackle in our new shop, and then specifically at what we’d like to do first. Here’s a quick preview of what’s coming up.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FSh5Mml8joA/VGj9g_6TI6I/AAAAAAAADSM/JpjylEdlS_c/s1600/homer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FSh5Mml8joA/VGj9g_6TI6I/AAAAAAAADSM/JpjylEdlS_c/s1600/homer.jpg" height="202" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Dories...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bOqQQ0mD67U/VGj9mepV-cI/AAAAAAAADSU/4hUtZOibzPk/s1600/Starting_out_after_rail1874mfaBoston.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bOqQQ0mD67U/VGj9mepV-cI/AAAAAAAADSU/4hUtZOibzPk/s1600/Starting_out_after_rail1874mfaBoston.jpg" height="320" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Duckers...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvWuvgkhGiY/VGj92ldPiPI/AAAAAAAADSc/VyBp7ghBr8g/s1600/chapskiffscan1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvWuvgkhGiY/VGj92ldPiPI/AAAAAAAADSc/VyBp7ghBr8g/s1600/chapskiffscan1.jpg" height="296" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Skiffs...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cO2n3drLv3w/VGj-B3jBl0I/AAAAAAAADSk/ZbBdG_VxA4I/s1600/jonesportpod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cO2n3drLv3w/VGj-B3jBl0I/AAAAAAAADSk/ZbBdG_VxA4I/s1600/jonesportpod.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Peapods...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5E5QrARCCNM/VGj-IeCj-fI/AAAAAAAADSs/xvu7-9RLSTk/s1600/chapelleplan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5E5QrARCCNM/VGj-IeCj-fI/AAAAAAAADSs/xvu7-9RLSTk/s1600/chapelleplan.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Melonseeds...</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3edDLRw3bIM/VGj-gO9xzjI/AAAAAAAADS0/fTp_x7KGwv4/s1600/boat1web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3edDLRw3bIM/VGj-gO9xzjI/AAAAAAAADS0/fTp_x7KGwv4/s1600/boat1web.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>And much more!</i></td></tr>
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Come on down, we'll have a fire in the stove. <br />
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<br />Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-3146127120630334622014-05-26T15:40:00.001-04:002014-05-26T15:40:15.291-04:00Cricket Gets Some Much Needed Attention<a href="http://jimluton.com/boats.php" target="_blank">Cricket</a> was forlorn! She didn't sail at all last year, with all the energy going into the launch and rigging of Mouse. Not to mention being capsized the previous year (a first) and sailing with a split mast and mangled gooseneck. So I decided this year to do the repairs, get her rigged, and back in the water. <br /><br />The mast and gooseneck were damaged at the dock when a gusting wind shift caught her aback suddenly, twisting the gooseneck, and pulling out screws, splitting the mast in the process. At the time, I jury rigged a repair (hose clamps) and sailed the rest of the year, but it bothered me having to look at the damage. With Mouse pretty much complete, I set out to do right by Cricket.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7_LUfwLYmj8/U4OOirtZoJI/AAAAAAAACd0/l5B3ePpcrlU/s1600/crickwash2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7_LUfwLYmj8/U4OOirtZoJI/AAAAAAAACd0/l5B3ePpcrlU/s1600/crickwash2.jpg" height="223" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A good scrub out.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vXjav6E_rC4/U4OOieW3sqI/AAAAAAAACdo/w_6y0kdfAFY/s1600/crickwash1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vXjav6E_rC4/U4OOieW3sqI/AAAAAAAACdo/w_6y0kdfAFY/s1600/crickwash1.jpg" height="253" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cricket's paint job is 7 years old now, and still looks great.</i></td></tr>
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<br />I really like having a fixed gooseneck, but there were always problems with it. I put a round tenon on the mast when I built it, but the vang over-rotated the mast when tensioned and the boom fitting would gouge the side of the mast. So I put a key on the mast which engages a slot in the partner preventing rotation. I did this three times in fact, before I got one that wouldn't break. I put in a hardwood key first, which split off the first time I stepped the mast. Next was an aluminum key, which the epoxy would not grab onto reliably. It failed as well. A plywood key was the trick. Glue held, and ply didn't split. It suffers from abuse while stepping the mast, but has held for several years now. Anyway, the fixed gooseneck was the real source of all the difficulty, so I decided to replace it with a traditional boom jaw.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFh9HV81Wk4/U4OPb6ij3xI/AAAAAAAACd8/dQWTZNNl5vo/s1600/jawpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFh9HV81Wk4/U4OPb6ij3xI/AAAAAAAACd8/dQWTZNNl5vo/s1600/jawpattern.jpg" height="151" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pattern for jaws.</i></td></tr>
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<br />I made a pattern and cut the jaws out of some ash I had around, making sure to leave space for leathering the jaws. The boom is round, so to fit the jaws to the sides of the spar, I hollowed them out with a gouge and some 80 grit paper on an appropriately sized sanding drum (2" diameter). I cut the old Dwyer boom fitting off with a hacksaw and sanded off the paint in preparation for bonding the jaws. I used just two stainless screws on each jaw to lock them in place, and mixed up a thick batch of epoxy, using the squeeze-out to form a small fillet all the way around.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vgzIuwXZJDg/U4OP42qPsSI/AAAAAAAACeI/vkbfAlonVx4/s1600/jawhollow.jpg" height="206" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The hollowed out bearing surface.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2h5F2PtBTw/U4OQB0EfgoI/AAAAAAAACeQ/wHaC8vDGjBA/s1600/jawglue1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2h5F2PtBTw/U4OQB0EfgoI/AAAAAAAACeQ/wHaC8vDGjBA/s1600/jawglue1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I clamped a scrap across the jaws to keep them in plane.</i></td></tr>
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<br />At the same time I was making the new jaws, I began repairing the mast. I removed the old gooseneck plate and screws, then ground all the paint away to examine the splits. I could have let in some wood dutchmen, but the splits weren't too bad, so I ended up laying on some strips of biaxial glass cloth in epoxy. The mast has always been painted so this will look fine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8f-j1DAx4H4/U4OPb-vGSrI/AAAAAAAACeA/8VZN0t5YGRU/s1600/mastrepair1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8f-j1DAx4H4/U4OPb-vGSrI/AAAAAAAACeA/8VZN0t5YGRU/s1600/mastrepair1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A couple of layers of biaxial glass cloth and epoxy went on the slits.</i></td></tr>
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When the jaws were cured up, I did some shaping on all the corners, paying particular attention to the boom end where it bears up against the mast. I then drilled holes through the jaws for a pair of rope strops to attach the halyard, downhaul, and reefing block. The beauty of this traditional approach is (besides looking good) that it requires very little hardware. Just some bits of rope and a shackle or two. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m4ks5t-KKSc/U4OSpC7vxdI/AAAAAAAACec/Hm_sf_7Zki4/s1600/shapejaws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m4ks5t-KKSc/U4OSpC7vxdI/AAAAAAAACec/Hm_sf_7Zki4/s1600/shapejaws.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Shaping the jaws.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6MTAq9aK36g/U4OVF3G4hoI/AAAAAAAACfI/JqA1s1DbYrU/s1600/boomwork2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6MTAq9aK36g/U4OVF3G4hoI/AAAAAAAACfI/JqA1s1DbYrU/s1600/boomwork2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I did some painting on the spars in the boat shop.</i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jB05iPTBd60/U4OTiQgvm5I/AAAAAAAACe8/0BcQDstwIzA/s1600/boomwork5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jB05iPTBd60/U4OTiQgvm5I/AAAAAAAACe8/0BcQDstwIzA/s1600/boomwork5.jpg" height="255" width="320" /></a></div>
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I set the rig up on the boat to check everything. A little fiddling got the old reefing lines working, but I had to change my halyard lead at the deck. The old lead came to a block on deck, just to the port side of the mast, but this location interfered with the new boom jaws, so I ended up moving the block to a position forward of the mast. I still have to put a fairlead back on the deck on the port side, to line the halyard up with its beehole through the forward coaming and thence to its cleat. The fairlead will keep the halyard from chafing the side of the mast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zfHJUiTYSmY/U4OTCYO961I/AAAAAAAACeo/LJI8Nml3FtA/s1600/checkrig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zfHJUiTYSmY/U4OTCYO961I/AAAAAAAACeo/LJI8Nml3FtA/s1600/checkrig.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Setting up the rig.</i></td></tr>
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When I was satisfied that the new plan would work, I got out the leather to line the jaws. I keep threatening to buy a whole hide, but I always seem to be able to scrounge up nice big scraps from Kika down the hall, so I'll save my money for now. Leathering a curving surface is a little fussy, and my techniques I'm sure are not the best, but some knife work and canoe tacks does an okay job. The leathers will stay put, I think. I pre-drilled for the tacks to keep the wood from splitting, a fairly necessary precaution. After the first split, I learned my lesson.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLuETJ53yzw/U4OWPlXWwVI/AAAAAAAACfQ/fbWwekOOM-M/s1600/jawleather1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YLuETJ53yzw/U4OWPlXWwVI/AAAAAAAACfQ/fbWwekOOM-M/s1600/jawleather1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The leather was cut to fit around the jaws. Note beeholes.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--x7xFd4ErIs/U4OWQeRwxQI/AAAAAAAACfY/La8Uo2uzcZ0/s1600/jawleather3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--x7xFd4ErIs/U4OWQeRwxQI/AAAAAAAACfY/La8Uo2uzcZ0/s1600/jawleather3.jpg" height="268" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished leathers.</i></td></tr>
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<br />I got Cricket all put back together- floorboards, floatation, dock lines, and ground tackle, then launched her yesterday and went sailing. Cricket was very happy to be back sailing! One little fussy thing is happening. My downhaul seems to inhibit easy rotation of the boom. So I may end up cutting off the key that prevents the mast from rotating. That way, the mast and boom can all move together. I don't know if the vang will still be a problem. I have to sail it more and think on it a little more.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zSQWv1Z5UtE/U4OWwYv-MII/AAAAAAAACfk/FoenqpK1dWM/s1600/cricksail_14_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zSQWv1Z5UtE/U4OWwYv-MII/AAAAAAAACfk/FoenqpK1dWM/s1600/cricksail_14_1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nice to be back!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-omelQo1HPmo/U4OWwQ4AsAI/AAAAAAAACfg/VR7Sekwcnm0/s1600/cricksail_14_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-omelQo1HPmo/U4OWwQ4AsAI/AAAAAAAACfg/VR7Sekwcnm0/s1600/cricksail_14_2.jpg" height="232" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Heading out at low tide, looking for the sand bar.</i></td></tr>
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Next time, we'll welcome aboard new Goat Island Skiff sailor Pat Daniels, and have a look at Mik Storer's deservedly popular design. But I need to go for a sail on it first!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-6460164570439669342014-02-09T22:01:00.001-05:002014-02-10T10:26:03.836-05:00Canoe Sailing - UK Style<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOHhNnAmz5o/Uvg5mcUevCI/AAAAAAAACVw/VxU8-nVFwW8/s1600/470202_240282736082726_503477596_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<i>Note: I asked for, and got permission from various UK sailors, and from Solway Dory to use their photographs and link to their pages. Solway Dory does not at present ship their products outside of the UK, because of past problems with damage and liability. I know they do not want to field a lot of emails asking for their products overseas. It is my intention to highlight what I consider to be good design, and to encourage the same kind of thoughtful design and careful craftsmanship here, that they exhibit across the pond.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zz1WRrwQyuc/UvgzyGsmgII/AAAAAAAACU0/xgqrDYYcZmA/s1600/175938_481429975221115_932378826_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zz1WRrwQyuc/UvgzyGsmgII/AAAAAAAACU0/xgqrDYYcZmA/s1600/175938_481429975221115_932378826_o.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gavin Millar- Solent sailing.</i></td></tr>
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I've been thinking a lot about canoe sailing lately, for various reasons. I recently sold my first sailing canoe <i>Spy</i>, to a sailor up in Salem, Mass. on Boston's north shore, and that empty rack in the canoe shed has got me thinking. I have often wondered what I might do with a sailing canoe design if I started from scratch, with no pretensions to racing in any organized sense, but with the intention of building a wholesome and seaworthy canoe for day sailing and cruising. It was while banging around the internet in search of all things canoe sailing, that I came across the <a href="http://www.ocsg.org.uk/" target="_blank">Open Canoe Sailing Group</a> (OCSG) and <a href="http://solwaydory.co.uk/" target="_blank">Solway Dory</a>, the UK builder of sailing canoes and rigs.<br />
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I actually had heard of both of these outfits many years ago while racing in the ACA and C Class nationals at Moose Pond in Maine back in 1995. Several of the British sailors had come over to race with us, and to talk up the boats and events that they had going on. John Bull was the founder of the OCSG, and of Solway Dory. (Sadly, both John Bull passed away just last year.) With John came Keith and Ann Morris, Tony Ball, and Bernard O'Connor. The following year, several of the US sailors went to the UK to sail with them (couldn't afford it myself!). If memory serves, there was talk of establishing an International Canoe Rig for open canoes (not IC's, the sliding seat canoes), but I don't believe that ever materialized. At any rate, over the intervening years I moved away from organized canoe sailing, built an outrigger, sailed a Hobie 16 for a while, and a 27' cruising cat, then with Holly, organized the dinghy sailing program at <a href="http://sebagocanoeclub.org/" target="_blank">Sebago Canoe Club</a>. But I always kept the canoes, sailing them mostly by myself, reveling in the simplicity and handiness that canoe sailing affords.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EwNTfqImwuk/Uvg17SRwHLI/AAAAAAAACVM/nuvZTYC7nYo/s1600/413364_262294613881538_1374578807_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EwNTfqImwuk/Uvg17SRwHLI/AAAAAAAACVM/nuvZTYC7nYo/s1600/413364_262294613881538_1374578807_o.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Photo- Gavin Millar.</i></td></tr>
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It turns out these Brits have pushed the sport forward quite a ways, developing new boats and rigs, and organizing adventure cruising events all over Great Britain. Some of the canoes resemble our own, built on stock-boat platforms with drop-in rigs. But I think the decked, expedition rigged Solway Dory models have a lot of potential for demanding sailing, and the boats are proven in real world environments, with several (highly experienced) sailors making very ambitious voyages.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lFwugLxwfws/Uvg17GWQQKI/AAAAAAAACVE/fxOieA5AaOk/s1600/181322_249344288509904_1740984508_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lFwugLxwfws/Uvg17GWQQKI/AAAAAAAACVE/fxOieA5AaOk/s1600/181322_249344288509904_1740984508_n.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Astrid- <i>Gavin Millars Solway Dory canoe.</i></td></tr>
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It is my belief that the development of these canoes without the constraints of class racing rules has had a very positive effect on the cruising capabilities that these craft exhibit. The Solway Dory models are a little different than what we are accustomed to here in the states. They are somewhat shorter and a tad wider, and I believe carry a little more rocker than ours do. Their <a href="http://solwaydory.co.uk/products/sailing-canoes/the-fulmar-decked-sailing-canoe/" target="_blank"><i>Fulmar</i></a> solo model is 14 1/2 feet long, with 40" of beam. The <a href="http://solwaydory.co.uk/products/sailing-canoes/shearwater-decked-sailing-canoe/" target="_blank"><i>Shearwater</i></a> is a solo or two-handed canoe that is 16 feet long, on the same beam. By contrast, my Mohawk Ultima, Alien is 18 feet long with a 38" beam and very little rocker. I can't speak to hull form, because I haven't seen the actual boats, or line drawings either (understandably).<br />
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There are a couple of features in particular that I think are worth considering. Watertight bulkheads close off the end decks, and that's pretty standard. Additionally though, these boats have bulkheads running fore and aft down each side, creating large side buoyancy tanks in the cockpit which really aid in righting a capsized boat. These bulkheads run parallel with the centerline, and are a constant width apart.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d0xMwJ1PxVc/Uvg36pzAYpI/AAAAAAAACVc/qu3Sfly_p2g/s1600/251918_249389545172045_250729289_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d0xMwJ1PxVc/Uvg36pzAYpI/AAAAAAAACVc/qu3Sfly_p2g/s1600/251918_249389545172045_250729289_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>View of the deck and cockpit. Notice the side tanks. Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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There is a removable seat at deck height from which to paddle. The seat can be easily adjusted fore and aft because of the parallel risers on which they rest. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wp6hxZscVw" target="_blank">Paddling from the seat</a> with a longish single blade appears to be quite easy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AQwkcA8toZs/Uvg36VovInI/AAAAAAAACVY/mVQgb6jTb98/s1600/282951_249342178510115_945323837_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AQwkcA8toZs/Uvg36VovInI/AAAAAAAACVY/mVQgb6jTb98/s1600/282951_249342178510115_945323837_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Paddles can be stowed on the fore deck.</i> <i>Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOHhNnAmz5o/Uvg5mcUevCI/AAAAAAAACV0/F8DUOraWSak/s1600/470202_240282736082726_503477596_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rOHhNnAmz5o/Uvg5mcUevCI/AAAAAAAACV0/F8DUOraWSak/s1600/470202_240282736082726_503477596_o.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leeboard bracket and cross beam attachment. Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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There is no leeboard thwart, though there is often a thwart to land the mainsheet cleat on. The longitudinal bulkheads stiffen the hull, and the leeboard bracket is carried just on the side deck. As an accessory, Solway Dory offers an outrigger package. These outriggers are interesting, in that they are intended as safety amas only. They are quite short, and carried high, well forward on a single cross beam. It is not intended that they be sailed immersed like a trimaran, but are there to provide an extra margin of safety in rough conditions. I doubt I would use them daysailing, but I certainly see their value in expedition type sailing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P3tFGQMcBQE/Uvg7SG6ErvI/AAAAAAAACV8/p04TLQQFi2c/s1600/467615_222246134553053_1427387857_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P3tFGQMcBQE/Uvg7SG6ErvI/AAAAAAAACV8/p04TLQQFi2c/s1600/467615_222246134553053_1427387857_o.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rv8edvTkwXw/Uvg7WreasXI/AAAAAAAACWE/YSNhGFIiKY4/s1600/544608_255503157894017_285383132_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rv8edvTkwXw/Uvg7WreasXI/AAAAAAAACWE/YSNhGFIiKY4/s1600/544608_255503157894017_285383132_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0AXT1SUd9s/Uvg36yHZ9WI/AAAAAAAACVk/lYIt_Nw2Fj0/s1600/283793_249356511842015_464096417_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0AXT1SUd9s/Uvg36yHZ9WI/AAAAAAAACVk/lYIt_Nw2Fj0/s1600/283793_249356511842015_464096417_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gavin and </i>Stacey. <i>Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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Most of the rigs I've seen are unstayed, unbattened bermudans which roller-furl around the mast like a Seapearl. They use end-boom sheets and kickers (vangs), which must be unshackled from the mast before furling. The decks are well thought out, having straps for paddle stowage and fairleads for rudder control lines, etc. For steering, they all seem to use a single push-pull stick which snaps into a fitting to lock the rudder for paddling. The outrigger cross beams attach with just two bolts. I believe that what these folks have brought to modern sailing canoe design is valuable. I know that some sailors in this country prefer narrow boats, with "sit-inside" cockpits and double paddles, but I'm a fan of the wider hulls, sailed like a dinghy. The sailing canoe (unlike most racing dinghys) is a boat that can be car-topped, yet loaded with gear for cruising while leaving plenty of room in the cockpit to sail from. The addition of fore and aft buoyancy chambers, smart deck layout, a wide, flat hiking seat on the side decks, and the safety amas for voyaging all contribute to a sensible design and a craft worth studying further. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n2gqbSnR6sA/Uvg8xVIOIsI/AAAAAAAACWQ/5bwFpQbf_fs/s1600/303494_249344478509885_1330396330_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n2gqbSnR6sA/Uvg8xVIOIsI/AAAAAAAACWQ/5bwFpQbf_fs/s1600/303494_249344478509885_1330396330_n.jpg" height="320" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>On the beach, rig furled. Gavin Millar photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rhAh2dgESJg/Uvg8xutMWfI/AAAAAAAACWU/Sa-F6opl7Ao/s1600/946247_10151653989882953_1174366462_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rhAh2dgESJg/Uvg8xutMWfI/AAAAAAAACWU/Sa-F6opl7Ao/s1600/946247_10151653989882953_1174366462_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Loch Sunart. Andy Whitham photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C0rkby3AEjM/Uvg9fxR75QI/AAAAAAAACWk/8q3GhEpHH30/s1600/andywhitman1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C0rkby3AEjM/Uvg9fxR75QI/AAAAAAAACWk/8q3GhEpHH30/s1600/andywhitman1.jpg" height="235" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>David Stubbs of Solway Dory. Andy Whitham photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LgVD3Es36wU/Uvg9f5vgP6I/AAAAAAAACWg/LWXOjIn3-NA/s1600/andywhitman3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LgVD3Es36wU/Uvg9f5vgP6I/AAAAAAAACWg/LWXOjIn3-NA/s1600/andywhitman3.jpg" height="234" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Loch Sunart. Andy Whitham photo.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sCzu-tpa9rY/Uvg9_ZS4TcI/AAAAAAAACW0/71aPDxg0ink/s1600/davidstubbs1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sCzu-tpa9rY/Uvg9_ZS4TcI/AAAAAAAACW0/71aPDxg0ink/s1600/davidstubbs1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>David Stubbs, fitting a deck hatch. Solway dory photo.</i></td></tr>
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When I started looking over the UK canoe sailing scene, I came across <a href="http://canoesailor.com/blog/?p=328" target="_blank">Gavin Millar's blog</a>. Gavin, who lives on the Solent in the south of England, proposed to sail solo in a canoe around mainland Britain, a distance of about 2200 miles. Gavin had Solway Dory build him a custom Shearwater, and prepared for the trip by circumnavigating the Isle of Wight. Gavin managed 1000 miles of the voyage, before running out of time and cutting the trip short. This is still a tremendous feat, and speaks both to Gavin's skill as a sailor, and to the suitability of the boat for expedition cruising. I can't do justice in this small space to Gavin's feat, but encourage you to read his wonderful blog describing the journey. It was largely through his very good photographs that I became interested in these boats.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Keith Morris' lug yawl.</i></td></tr>
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The OCSG and Solway Dory both have links to many cruises that are undertaken yearly in the UK. I've focused primarily on the decked boats, but I don't want to give short shrift to the open canoes. There is a ton of canoe sailing of all sorts in the UK. In the Lake district, in Scotland and, as Gavin has shown us, in the solent, too. Take a look at what these folks are doing, then let's get busy!<br />
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<br />Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-42624914069233542632014-01-27T11:00:00.000-05:002014-01-27T11:00:19.836-05:00The Matinicus Double ender- Part 24<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Rigging Sails</b></span><br />
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Click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> to view part one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--wwKHDuCizI/UuZzmGXYLBI/AAAAAAAACSI/r2asrq9Qpog/s1600/rig2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--wwKHDuCizI/UuZzmGXYLBI/AAAAAAAACSI/r2asrq9Qpog/s1600/rig2_web.jpg" height="279" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Setting up the rig for the first time.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8D8ug4GBuo4/UuZzmf2Xx1I/AAAAAAAACSQ/buJasvpCxGA/s1600/rig3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8D8ug4GBuo4/UuZzmf2Xx1I/AAAAAAAACSQ/buJasvpCxGA/s1600/rig3_web.jpg" height="292" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Setting up the rig for the first time.</i></td></tr>
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I hauled the as yet unfinished spars out to the club to set up on the boat. I wanted to locate all of the cleats and fairleads and what-not, and locate the leather chafe guards before varnishing, and I wanted to get it right. I spent most of a whole day setting up the rig, trying various boom and yard positions, relative to hoist and downhaul points. Since I designed my own rig, I didn't have any tried, true, and tested set of drawings to go by, only my own sketch with some basic dimensions. I moved the boom fore and aft quite a bit, looking for the best position overlaying the mast. I decided on a position for the both the boom and yard that set the luff more or less parallel with the mast, and that put the clew end of the boom high enough for head clearance. On a lug rig, downhaul tension is everything. When first set up, I was using just a spare block or two to get me in the ball park, but making a list of the parts that I still need to order. I didn't have enough purchase on the trial setup to get good luff tension, so we had a little wrinkle from the clew to the head. When I was satisfied with the sails, I marked all of the pertinent locations for line attachments and cleats, and made some sketches so that when I had the spars back in the shop I would know just what to do.<br />
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I placed an order for all the line, blocks, and doo-dads I would need, and set to work back in the shop. I tried to make as many of the fittings as I could, including various horn cleats, jam cleats, and bee blocks (for lack of a better word). My plan was to glue most of the hardware into shallow mortises in the spars. I did not want to use screws in the hollow sticks, because I would need solid blocking in those locations, and there are a lot of them. Rather than to have to plan out every location in advance and install the blocking, I opted for the shallow mortise. I laid out patterns for the various cleats, making sure to include extra depth at their bases for the mortise, then cut the many fittings out from scrap ash that I had in the shop, fairing them up and shaping the edges with chisels, files, and rasps. I sealed all of these with shellac, then began gluing them in the mortised spars, using blue tape for clamps. I then moved on to varnishing, putting on a coat each evening for several days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v2M_eqXuzok/UuZ10Qfk5uI/AAAAAAAACSo/eZ11OA4SBu8/s1600/cleatlayout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v2M_eqXuzok/UuZ10Qfk5uI/AAAAAAAACSo/eZ11OA4SBu8/s1600/cleatlayout.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cleat layout on ash stock.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TOyhV0v7fCw/UuZ10WcLWxI/AAAAAAAACSw/TcOeMpKlsnY/s1600/cleats_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TOyhV0v7fCw/UuZ10WcLWxI/AAAAAAAACSw/TcOeMpKlsnY/s1600/cleats_w.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A pile of cleats and bee blocks, ready to install and varnish.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKeixnNHdQo/UuZ10Et9NmI/AAAAAAAACSs/Az9WqLQBvsY/s1600/cleatglue_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKeixnNHdQo/UuZ10Et9NmI/AAAAAAAACSs/Az9WqLQBvsY/s1600/cleatglue_w.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I glued the cleats into shallow mortises.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Once the cleats were on and the spars were varnished, I fitted the various chafe guards, using scraps of leather from the KikaNY shop down the hall. One day, Kika, I swear I'll buy a hide of my own! I went out and bought a nice little punch for the stitching. This punch has tines that are really too close together for my purposes. I really should cut off every other one, but I'll buy another just like it before I do, just in case. It's tricky to cut the leather the right length, because some space needs to be allowed for stretching, and different hides stretch at different rates, so predicting that is a bit of trial and error. I cut the pieces about 3/16" short of the circumference, punched the holes, soaked the leather in warm water, then stitched them up snugly, using two needles crossing back and forth in a kind of baseball stitch. There is a lot of information out there for this, but I kind of found my own way with it, and I'm pretty pleased with the results. I truly enjoyed this work. You just pull up a chair and go at it. It's kind of a zen zone thing, and nice music helps (probably not Marilyn Manson, though). Finally, all the spars were done!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5O7RjjR-Fs/UuZ4ClCwoaI/AAAAAAAACT0/YIveXm-nma8/s1600/sand_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5O7RjjR-Fs/UuZ4ClCwoaI/AAAAAAAACT0/YIveXm-nma8/s1600/sand_w.jpg" height="218" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I sanded the varnish for better grip on the leathers.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N_jawZJGhpg/UuZ3LgzHZXI/AAAAAAAACTM/IhyHXuTnm4I/s1600/punch_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N_jawZJGhpg/UuZ3LgzHZXI/AAAAAAAACTM/IhyHXuTnm4I/s1600/punch_w.jpg" height="230" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The punch I bought for stitching the leather.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NFOdJWMKUmg/UuZ3LtEhnTI/AAAAAAAACTE/IIR7nURmON0/s1600/stitch_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NFOdJWMKUmg/UuZ3LtEhnTI/AAAAAAAACTE/IIR7nURmON0/s1600/stitch_w.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The stitching is done with two needles.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKiUu-uNBVc/UuZ3y3ImtFI/AAAAAAAACTc/lPZxuUMiJSg/s1600/mastleather1_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKiUu-uNBVc/UuZ3y3ImtFI/AAAAAAAACTc/lPZxuUMiJSg/s1600/mastleather1_w.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The guard where the mizzen mast enters the deck.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njbM8x4jQEc/UuZ4CrwV_PI/AAAAAAAACTs/-Pn_OdzSTUQ/s1600/mizjaw_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njbM8x4jQEc/UuZ4CrwV_PI/AAAAAAAACTs/-Pn_OdzSTUQ/s1600/mizjaw_w.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Mizzen boom jaws.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-csNH-KuORkM/UuZ4Cha5F0I/AAAAAAAACTw/TmLNb0R-Ag4/s1600/varnishspars_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-csNH-KuORkM/UuZ4Cha5F0I/AAAAAAAACTw/TmLNb0R-Ag4/s1600/varnishspars_w.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A finished set of spars!</i></td></tr>
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I think it's probably worth a written description of the rigging details for Mouse's lug yawl rig. The rig is pretty well understood and documented now, due to its recent widespread popularity among the sail and oar group, but I'll offer my take on it here. The fore is hoisted on a halyard that ties into a mast traveler ring, which slides up and down the mast. There is a rope strop around the yard that slips onto a hook under the ring.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqQI9LccgVE/UuZzl-pJXJI/AAAAAAAACSM/qoNA7G3AZh8/s1600/masttrav_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqQI9LccgVE/UuZzl-pJXJI/AAAAAAAACSM/qoNA7G3AZh8/s1600/masttrav_web.jpg" height="243" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I bought a mast traveler from <a href="http://classicmarine.co.uk/" target="_blank">Classic Marine</a> in the UK.</td></tr>
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The halyard passes through a sheave at the masthead, which runs port to starboard (not fore and aft). This orientation routes the halyard down the starboard side of the mast, to a block strapped to the mast thwart, then back up to a cleat on the mast. To ship or unship the yard, the strop just unhooks from the traveler. The boom is held to the mast largely by a several part downhaul that tensions the luff, though it is finally secured by a line or some such around boom and mast after hoisting. Some folks use an actual dog collar for this, and I will too when I get to the pet store. In the meantime, I named that line that I use the 'dog collar". When the downhaul is hauled tight, the yard peaks up and the whole rig is under control. Hoisting is a little bit of a fire drill and must be done very quickly. Until set, the yard flails around a bit. Afloat, this whole scene is made possible by that little mizzen sail, which keeps your nose comfortably upwind. Without the mizzen, the boat will want to start sailing before things are under control, and that would not be fun!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J5QY-TNw5aQ/UuZ7ncVzJkI/AAAAAAAACT4/kXJKFiTNYp4/s1600/fore_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J5QY-TNw5aQ/UuZ7ncVzJkI/AAAAAAAACT4/kXJKFiTNYp4/s1600/fore_w.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This shows the halyard and downhaul arrangement. It's a little messy looking here, but it all works.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMxZVsCMp_U/UuZ8B9738UI/AAAAAAAACUA/T34QgDyJAKQ/s1600/foreclose_w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMxZVsCMp_U/UuZ8B9738UI/AAAAAAAACUA/T34QgDyJAKQ/s1600/foreclose_w.jpg" height="262" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Close-up view. The mast chafe guard is just taped on here. I didn't have a big enough piece of leather at the time.</i></td></tr>
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The downhaul itself clips into another strop on the boom via a carabiner. It's fast to clip on and off. The tackle consists of an old Laser fiddle with v-jam that is strapped to the thwart. On the top there is a double, giving a total 4:1 purchase. That has proved sufficient, though some sailors use even more. The sail is lashed to the yard, but is loose footed at the boom. The tack is simply tied off through a hole in the boom's end. The clew has a line through the grommet that passes around the boom and serves as a traveler. There is an outhaul that dead ends at the aft end of the boom, then passes through the clew grommet and back to a cheek block on the other side of the boom, then to a wood jam cleat up forward a little ways. <br /><br />For reefing at both tack and clew, I dead end a line around the boom with a bowline, go up to a carabiner that clips into the reef grommet (the carabiner has a ring fairlead) then down through a hole (dumb sheave) in the boom and forward or aft to a jam cleat. (Note that when these photos were taken, I had not yet installed the carabiners for the reefing tackles. The line just passes through the grommet.) The clew reef should have an angle aft to automatically tighten the foot. You want a tight outhaul if you are reefed. The sail is neatened up with reef pendants through the grommets as usual. To reef afloat, I haul the mizzen in and let go the helm. The boats sits there roughly head to wind, drifting straight backwards (leave room to leeward). I drop the whole rig into the boat, unhook the downhaul and mast traveler quickly, then tie in the reefs and re-hoist. The only time to hurry is during lowering and hoisting. As with anything to do with boats, practice builds confidence.<br />
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The following is an excerpt from a post on the Wooden Boat forum after my first sail-<br />
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<i>"Finally took a first sail on Mouse yesterday, and could not be
happier. The little mizzen works as advertised, and once I got
comfortable with the setup, steering, sheeting the fore, and mizzen was
easy and handy. The forecast from I- Windsurf was for light wind (5-7)
from the SW, so naturally it blew 14, a little gusty and shifting W to
S. The boat is tender (I have expected to ballast all along), so I was a
little edgy at first, but heeled down she is quite stiff, and really
fast. I'm going to try a couple of sand bags, then add some permanent
ballast under the floor boards. I must have got my sums right, the
balance is perfect, and I can tweak the helm with an inch or two or
three of sheet on the mizzen. I love that little sail. I don't even have
to look, as I can hear when it luffs, and feel when it needs freeing
up. I led the sheet to a cam on the deck just behind the coaming, on a
little ash riser block. I'm quite happy with the lead to the rudder
head, too. My location is aft enough on the boom that I can get the sail
very close to dead center. At any rate, she heaves to pretty close to
dead upwind. I have not yet run a reefing drill afloat, but I'll do that
next time out. I tucked into the lee of an island, and reefed there.
Did some creek crawling in the marsh at high speed, and she tacks and
jibes very reliably. I really had no idea how she would behave. Its a
new rig for me, and my own design, so there's lots of ways I could have
gone wrong. I had crew with me, but I handled all the stuff myself so I
could get a feel for the rig and helm."</i><br />
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Well folks, this kind of wraps up my double ender saga, at least for the time being. As I write this, we are in the middle of a series of "polar vortexes" as they say, with temps rollercoastering between 30 and the single digits. I'm looking forward to next season's sailing, when I can get the rig all tidied up, and a lot more time in the boat. I will post some updates from time to time. Thanks to all who took the time to read and look. It's been fun putting this build to press, so to speak. I'm looking forward to continuing this blog with many other boat and boating stories!<br /><br />Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-77505337966165065592014-01-19T15:35:00.000-05:002014-01-19T15:35:10.786-05:00The Matinicus Double ender- Part 23<h4>
Spar Time!</h4>
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Click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> to view part one. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SqGaHEX3eRQ/UtwpydZ_rjI/AAAAAAAACOY/tKZRVCPUS1w/s1600/mdeportrait4-v2009_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SqGaHEX3eRQ/UtwpydZ_rjI/AAAAAAAACOY/tKZRVCPUS1w/s1600/mdeportrait4-v2009_web.jpg" height="320" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The original sail plan. Fores'l was increased to 80'.</i></td></tr>
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A full set of spars for a lug yawl is a bit of an undertaking. The pieces are not big or heavy, or complex either, but there's a lot of them! Five for this boat, and it would be six with a boomkin, but I'm tacking the mizzen sheet to the rudder head so don't need that stick. Mouse is a special boat, and not a cheap one, so I went for the best spar grade Sitka spruce I could find at M.L. Condon lumber. I can remember once paying around $2 a board foot for this stuff, back in the 80's. Try $8.50 now! But I picked out some nice sticks. I also had an old mast blank from my Penguin that I cut up and re-purposed. That stock went into the new mizzen mast.<br /><br />The fore mast is a solid stick, but the rest are hollow birdsmouth, except the mizzen boom which is so small that a hollow construction is not worth the effort. I glued up the fore mast in three pieces of 5/4 stock, dressed to 1-1/8". I don't have room behind the jointer for 16' stock, so I trued up the edges with my circular saw and a home made track beam, clamped to the boards along a chalk line. After truing one edge, I ripped the sticks to width on the table saw, then flattened the high spots on one face of each with my fore plane before sending them through the planer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhJ3GbGnWw0/UtwpylUzNJI/AAAAAAAACOg/tn93mM2tcgo/s1600/sparedgetrue_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QhJ3GbGnWw0/UtwpylUzNJI/AAAAAAAACOg/tn93mM2tcgo/s1600/sparedgetrue_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I made a saw track to true the long edges of my spruce.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PjC54fu2YqA/UtwpyfjVilI/AAAAAAAACOc/UGB8uJabpyw/s1600/mast1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PjC54fu2YqA/UtwpyfjVilI/AAAAAAAACOc/UGB8uJabpyw/s1600/mast1_web.jpg" height="258" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The three sticks for the solid fore mast.</i></td></tr>
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After gluing up the blanks, I popped a centerline down the length of each side and laid out the tapers from the center out. I sprung a batten around the marks for a little parabolic curvature, rather than a straight taper, and cut to the lines on the bandsaw. I trued the faces flat and square before laying out the cuts for eight siding with a little quick and dirty spar gauge.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QGXvfFCHf-k/Utwr_FDEBEI/AAAAAAAACPI/EXZz-Fu4yPY/s1600/taper_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QGXvfFCHf-k/Utwr_FDEBEI/AAAAAAAACPI/EXZz-Fu4yPY/s1600/taper_web.jpg" height="304" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sawing out the tapers.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d3LbABa3Y_E/UtwrKE-U1XI/AAAAAAAACOs/xDhkgqjWKXc/s1600/spargauge_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d3LbABa3Y_E/UtwrKE-U1XI/AAAAAAAACOs/xDhkgqjWKXc/s1600/spargauge_web.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Spar gauge used for laying out the eight siding.</i></td></tr>
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I left the fore mast square in section from just above the partners down to the tenon. The round section fairs into the square with a sort of scallop. I cut close to the lines with a drawknife, then finished up the flats with a plane, working the scalloped bits with a spokeshave. The sixteen siding I did by eye, just striving to keep the flats equal in width.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jr3UA5UkTPw/UtwrKIQxSUI/AAAAAAAACO8/NHogfIMJAMI/s1600/8side3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jr3UA5UkTPw/UtwrKIQxSUI/AAAAAAAACO8/NHogfIMJAMI/s1600/8side3_web.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I cut <i>close to the lines all around with a drawknife.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gice9O2dJGI/UtwrKPSi7aI/AAAAAAAACPA/uaJGMwOLKaY/s1600/8side2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gice9O2dJGI/UtwrKPSi7aI/AAAAAAAACPA/uaJGMwOLKaY/s1600/8side2_web.jpg" height="258" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This is how I transitioned fro round to square.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Evg0gdFfl-k/UtwsXT9mdyI/AAAAAAAACPM/_lRxCdvCQEk/s1600/16side1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Evg0gdFfl-k/UtwsXT9mdyI/AAAAAAAACPM/_lRxCdvCQEk/s1600/16side1_web.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sixteen siding by eye.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f8V2X3knO3s/UtwwG6Wj90I/AAAAAAAACQw/_FPW3gJ9Wnw/s1600/tenon_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f8V2X3knO3s/UtwwG6Wj90I/AAAAAAAACQw/_FPW3gJ9Wnw/s1600/tenon_web.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The foremast tenon.</i></td></tr>
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At the same time that I was working the fore down to round, I was cutting the birdsmouth staves and gluing those up. This method of spar building utilizes a formula to derive the stave widths and thicknesses for a given radius. One edge of each stave is cut with a 90 deg. vee groove, and the other edge is left square. The taper is cut on the square edge. One stave of each spar is marked out, cut, and trued up with a block plane, then that stave is used as a pattern to mark the other seven.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zCJukmbNcGg/Utwtgm2RFEI/AAAAAAAACPY/yDSt2aGL0b8/s1600/bmspar_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zCJukmbNcGg/Utwtgm2RFEI/AAAAAAAACPY/yDSt2aGL0b8/s1600/bmspar_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The vee groove is cut on the shaper.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VqBTHL48trM/Utwth4O-syI/AAAAAAAACQA/-4lLosFOalc/s1600/bmspartaper2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VqBTHL48trM/Utwth4O-syI/AAAAAAAACQA/-4lLosFOalc/s1600/bmspartaper2_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Using a tapered stave to mark the rest of the eight pieces.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5bmKh4DG48A/UtwthaSgtKI/AAAAAAAACP4/jRbTNIhDGds/s1600/bmsparstack_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5bmKh4DG48A/UtwthaSgtKI/AAAAAAAACP4/jRbTNIhDGds/s1600/bmsparstack_web.jpg" height="282" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Three spars worth of staves.</i></td></tr>
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Each square edge nestles into the vee of the next stave, with eight
staves making an octagon. Glue is applied in each vee groove, and the
spar is assembled and clamped with hose clamps. I then glued octagonal
plugs in the ends of each stick, to close them off. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KR1PEz9l-6Y/Utwtg9_vYRI/AAAAAAAACPw/Nq0kWrfW0MA/s1600/bmsparglue1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KR1PEz9l-6Y/Utwtg9_vYRI/AAAAAAAACPw/Nq0kWrfW0MA/s1600/bmsparglue1_web.jpg" height="267" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Applying glue to all eight at one time.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnqYTK-d3fs/UtwthACU9xI/AAAAAAAACPs/2vIOIBs8W0Q/s1600/bmsparglue_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnqYTK-d3fs/UtwthACU9xI/AAAAAAAACPs/2vIOIBs8W0Q/s1600/bmsparglue_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The staves are assembled, and secured with hose clamps.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AqGAii8R1-c/Utwuzo1SMdI/AAAAAAAACQI/WS2DmKODP2U/s1600/endplugs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AqGAii8R1-c/Utwuzo1SMdI/AAAAAAAACQI/WS2DmKODP2U/s1600/endplugs.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>End plugs.</i></td></tr>
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The hollow spars were sixteen sided just like the solid one, by eye. I keep threatening to make a set of spar planes, but I haven't done it yet. I ended up buying a nice radius spokeshave from Veritas, which fits every spar except the large end of the fore. This shave worked great on the spars, as it will on oars as well. It's a very well made tool that makes truing a round much easier. For sanding, I used a trick that I picked up from the WB forum, probably from Clint Chase. I made a box sander from plywood and a sanding belt that conforms readily to a changing, round shape. I made an 80 grit and a 120 grit box, then finished up with some 180 grit by hand.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-0Ffy8owMU/UtwvUTe5RQI/AAAAAAAACQQ/5d6AYATRYcc/s1600/radiusshave_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-0Ffy8owMU/UtwvUTe5RQI/AAAAAAAACQQ/5d6AYATRYcc/s1600/radiusshave_web.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>My radius spokeshave. An excellent tool!</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n8_j7x6PJuA/UtwvUvrv7dI/AAAAAAAACQU/6pH_AR4c52A/s1600/sandbox1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n8_j7x6PJuA/UtwvUvrv7dI/AAAAAAAACQU/6pH_AR4c52A/s1600/sandbox1_web.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Flexible sanding box. I got the idea from Clint Chase and Steven Bauer.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UUztuiviaZM/UtwvUlbq5tI/AAAAAAAACQc/uceAjkOOCQM/s1600/sandbox2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UUztuiviaZM/UtwvUlbq5tI/AAAAAAAACQc/uceAjkOOCQM/s1600/sandbox2_web.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>It conforms to a changing diameter easily.</i></td></tr>
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The fore mast has a sheave for the halyard, let into a through mortise at the mast head. Rather than chop a mortise though, I cut a "u" shape in the top, then glued in a block to close the box. Easier than chopping by far. The sheave pivots on a brass rod driven through the mast. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVy9M0wMEG0/UtwxJkF9SJI/AAAAAAAACQ0/aY9CRXSzQpU/s1600/sheave1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVy9M0wMEG0/UtwxJkF9SJI/AAAAAAAACQ0/aY9CRXSzQpU/s1600/sheave1_web.jpg" height="245" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fore halyard sheave fits into a "u" shaped mortise.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RA-q9ClkV5I/UtwxJs7eIwI/AAAAAAAACQ8/5LPsjRy8abs/s1600/sheave2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RA-q9ClkV5I/UtwxJs7eIwI/AAAAAAAACQ8/5LPsjRy8abs/s1600/sheave2_web.jpg" height="299" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The top is closed off.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_t0CqE1LQf0/UtwxJwuuf1I/AAAAAAAACQ4/LZZNnh96h2Q/s1600/sheave3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_t0CqE1LQf0/UtwxJwuuf1I/AAAAAAAACQ4/LZZNnh96h2Q/s1600/sheave3_web.jpg" height="320" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished mortise.</i></td></tr>
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The mizzen utilizes a "dumb sheave" for the halyard. This is just a hole
drilled in the mast head to take the halyard. That sail lives on the
mast. The halyard is there just to allow reefing, so it doesn't go up
and down much.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E7LvH3eNn50/UtwxKj7N0jI/AAAAAAAACRg/U_0-3KBeGgg/s1600/spardrill1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E7LvH3eNn50/UtwxKj7N0jI/AAAAAAAACRg/U_0-3KBeGgg/s1600/spardrill1_web.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The set-up for hole drilling in a spar. This is the fore boom, I believe.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WSTDdBIQFs/UtwxK9bNiXI/AAAAAAAACRc/K1afeoHIDeI/s1600/spardrill2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WSTDdBIQFs/UtwxK9bNiXI/AAAAAAAACRc/K1afeoHIDeI/s1600/spardrill2_web.jpg" height="243" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I drill a small pilot first, then come in from both sides with a larger bit.</i></td></tr>
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After sanding all the spars, I put on a sealer coat of shellac to keep them clean, then headed out to the club to set up the sails for the first time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcRw9Arh1SE/UtwyYFjOuiI/AAAAAAAACRo/Rz3DTPI8o8w/s1600/sparcoated_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcRw9Arh1SE/UtwyYFjOuiI/AAAAAAAACRo/Rz3DTPI8o8w/s1600/sparcoated_web.jpg" height="320" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Spars are shellacked to keep the dirt off 'til varnishing time.</i></td></tr>
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Next time we'll set up the rig!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-74995764879137033092014-01-11T19:55:00.000-05:002014-01-11T19:55:17.367-05:00The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 22<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html" target="_blank">here</a> to view Part one-<br />
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It must be the time of year, but January often brings up a need to update this blog! The boat has been finished for a while now, and rigged and sailed and rowed, though not exhaustively. I'm looking forward to the coming season, and to spending a lot more time sailing the boat. On New Years Day, I got out for a row. A shortish one in the 20 degree weather, but I made it out to the daymarker and back, about 3 miles. Enough for a cold day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-57mnOLHtMMQ/UtGxcz2c9jI/AAAAAAAACLU/znQGtX9kSSU/s1600/dock2.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bundled up on New Years Day.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FclzHoEO94k/UtGxc8IRdfI/AAAAAAAACLQ/TtN9_wZq714/s1600/row2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FclzHoEO94k/UtGxc8IRdfI/AAAAAAAACLQ/TtN9_wZq714/s1600/row2.jpg" height="200" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>One more swing past the dock before heading out.</i></td></tr>
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I'd like to bring this project to a close, and move on to other things. But to pick up first where I left off…<br />
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The foils were cut out, shaped, and sanded. I next cut strips of glass on the bias to wrap the leading edges (easier around the curves than 90 deg. tape), putting on a couple of layers for protection on grounding. The daggerboard in particular needs to be rugged, and the wood (spanish cedar) is soft. The rough glass edges were smoothed, and then a whole piece of cloth was cut to shape and applied to each face of both foils. I've been graphite coating foils for years, to good effect, so I did this daggerboard as well. I painted the rudder blade though, because I didn't want a black blade spoiling the paint scheme. The trick to graphite coating is to mix plenty of powder into the epoxy so that it's consistently dark enough, and I usually apply two coats as well, sanding in between. It's a little messy to sand initially, at least dry. I use a random orbit with 100 grit dry at first to smooth things out, re-coat, then switch to wet abralon pads, 220 through 1500. There's often a little sand through in places, but I leave those alone. The graphite/epoxy produces a very tough, durable surface that holds up for years, and is easy to touch up if necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zm8zjgQjejk/UtGyAHFDtoI/AAAAAAAACLk/FIml7XZQvFk/s1600/dagblack1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zm8zjgQjejk/UtGyAHFDtoI/AAAAAAAACLk/FIml7XZQvFk/s1600/dagblack1_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The coated daggerboard, before sanding.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dEMjLTnEbw/UtGyAJ658kI/AAAAAAAACLo/auaJjEMW6oc/s1600/dag%2526tiller_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3dEMjLTnEbw/UtGyAJ658kI/AAAAAAAACLo/auaJjEMW6oc/s1600/dag%2526tiller_web.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished daggerboard, plus varnished tiller and extensions.</i></td></tr>
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All that remained now were the sails and spars! I decided to go ahead and get the boat out of the shop. It was rowable at this point after all, and I needed the shop space to glue up the spars, so I called Marco, my mover, plus Matt and Chris to help with the big move. It's pretty exciting stuff, moving a boat out of the shop for the first time. My situation is a little different than most builders, in that I have a long hallway and an elevator to negotiate! But the elevator is huge- it's an industrial building with a real loading dock. We were actually able to roll the boat out of the door, by setting her on her bilge on top of two carpet dollies. Then we rolled her on down the hall and into the elevator.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gdl8aWdJpOg/UtGznAmiU4I/AAAAAAAACL0/zywBhShF8ng/s1600/mousehall_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gdl8aWdJpOg/UtGznAmiU4I/AAAAAAAACL0/zywBhShF8ng/s1600/mousehall_web.jpg" height="257" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>She rolls easily on a carpet dolly.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tRuPg4_k7Cc/UtGznKLI-xI/AAAAAAAACME/bvuVluBIB54/s1600/elevator_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tRuPg4_k7Cc/UtGznKLI-xI/AAAAAAAACME/bvuVluBIB54/s1600/elevator_web.jpg" height="255" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Mouse fit easily into the big elevator...</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UxtF_GVSSk/UtGznJHPiQI/AAAAAAAACMI/Oc-96XvMHBM/s1600/loadingdock_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4UxtF_GVSSk/UtGznJHPiQI/AAAAAAAACMI/Oc-96XvMHBM/s1600/loadingdock_web.jpg" height="249" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Matt and Chris ready to load the truck.</i></td></tr>
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Mouse is light enough to be handled easily by two or three people. Two can pick her up for a short time, but four is better for carrying without wheels. At any rate, she went right in the box truck, with her nose poking through the gate up in the cab. We were even able to close the roll down door! Mouse and crew made quite an appearance at the club that day, with plenty of hands eager to help put her on her dolly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TVEHdmpLFLY/UtG0d79lOrI/AAAAAAAACMM/DYzY2QJn4iU/s1600/ondolly2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TVEHdmpLFLY/UtG0d79lOrI/AAAAAAAACMM/DYzY2QJn4iU/s1600/ondolly2_web.jpg" height="232" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Our new home!</i></td></tr>
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Launch day was an event too. It actually took another week to get the dolly finished up with rollers and winch, ready to launch. We had a good spring day for it- warm with a pretty light southwest breeze. Mouse looked right pretty tied to the dock, sitting on her lines perfectly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxN2yBBCqhY/UtG1K8FVqAI/AAAAAAAACMs/s1m3Oa7727w/s1600/fromabove2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxN2yBBCqhY/UtG1K8FVqAI/AAAAAAAACMs/s1m3Oa7727w/s1600/fromabove2_web.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>First time afloat!</i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wZFZZrJmGTQ/UtG1GtdWBsI/AAAAAAAACMU/O7JyLKkk4WA/s1600/firstberth_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wZFZZrJmGTQ/UtG1GtdWBsI/AAAAAAAACMU/O7JyLKkk4WA/s1600/firstberth_web.jpg" height="190" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeMFacV3wCU/UtG1G7_9IzI/AAAAAAAACMY/8KEIeepVKGM/s1600/beer_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YeMFacV3wCU/UtG1G7_9IzI/AAAAAAAACMY/8KEIeepVKGM/s1600/beer_web.jpg" height="268" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The obligatory christening!</i></td></tr>
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I expected her to have quick motion, with that deadrise and high bilge. I wasn't foolish enough to try stepping onto her side bench, but like a canoe, stepping into the middle with a hand on the gunwale does the trick. Once settled down, her motion is fine, and man she's light as a feather with one aboard. Rowing from the aft thwart feels effortless! I rowed around a bit, then Holly and I took off together, with me rowing from the forward thwart at first, then both of us rowing together.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAkfkjFIZRs/UtG11_vXciI/AAAAAAAACNE/bOTROr_23Rs/s1600/row1_web.jpg" height="217" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Light as light!</i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cVxtqKEG5Ik/UtG11-JZ64I/AAAAAAAACM8/ZP8I7TiqbJE/s1600/row4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cVxtqKEG5Ik/UtG11-JZ64I/AAAAAAAACM8/ZP8I7TiqbJE/s1600/row4_web.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMIdRB1muKo/UtG117bxbhI/AAAAAAAACNA/1sxSiZHOl_E/s1600/rowmatt1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMIdRB1muKo/UtG117bxbhI/AAAAAAAACNA/1sxSiZHOl_E/s1600/rowmatt1_web.jpg" height="233" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Matt tries her out.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwZ1l8xgqcM/UtG12fQ9CzI/AAAAAAAACNI/jSVRoJNqh28/s1600/rowstern_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwZ1l8xgqcM/UtG12fQ9CzI/AAAAAAAACNI/jSVRoJNqh28/s1600/rowstern_web.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0sUa1Viw50/UtG2zuSI2bI/AAAAAAAACNY/ZPaQSulXLuc/s1600/hollyrow_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--0sUa1Viw50/UtG2zuSI2bI/AAAAAAAACNY/ZPaQSulXLuc/s1600/hollyrow_web.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Holly rows from the forward seat.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uH65lVcOF70/UtG2zgUH4uI/AAAAAAAACNc/--FCfSeRcNA/s1600/rowdbl2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uH65lVcOF70/UtG2zgUH4uI/AAAAAAAACNc/--FCfSeRcNA/s1600/rowdbl2_web.jpg" height="225" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Four oars.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oK1HYMZREio/UtG2zkTF_tI/AAAAAAAACNg/kxss3aICWT8/s1600/rowfromfwd_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oK1HYMZREio/UtG2zkTF_tI/AAAAAAAACNg/kxss3aICWT8/s1600/rowfromfwd_web.jpg" height="233" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>From forward with a passenger.</i></td></tr>
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Over the next few weeks, I rowed out to the islands a few times, getting a feel for the boat in wind. She seems to like me in the aft position most of the time. In a quartering breeze, she wants to round up-that seems to be her toughest course. Beam to is fine, tracking well even if making some leeway. She is light after all. But I was very anxious to get the sails up, and tried to stay in the shop to get those spars done. I'll cover that next time.<br />
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Thanks to everyone for looking at this blog!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-1257156123150156012013-01-12T15:00:00.001-05:002013-05-25T14:02:16.759-04:00The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 21Fair warning- This is a longish post. I waited much too long to write this stuff up, so there is a lot of material to cover! As always, to start at the beginning, click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">HERE</a>.<br />
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My latest chores on this boat project have been to complete the rudder assembly, including tiller, tiller extension, and rudder blade, plus the daggerboard which I glued up and shaped as well. Way back in <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2012/02/building-matinicus-double-ender-part-13.html">Part 13</a>,<span style="color: #0d2bff;"> </span>I detailed the rudder layout, making patterns and mock-ups of the parts, then fabricating the core pieces and assembling all the gudgeons and control line sheaves and what-not. Kick-up rudders are not hard to make, but they must be laid out carefully, and checked for proper operation, at least with paper or mylar patterns. They do have many parts, compared to fixed rudders, but the boat can be beached without removing the rudder, or sailed (at least downwind) in shallow water.<br />
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The first thing I had to do on picking the rudder back up, was to cut out the tiller and mortise it through the rudder head. If you remember, this boat has a Norwegian style "push-pull" tiller, to get around the mizzen mast which would otherwise be in the way of a conventional tiller. I found a nice piece of ash for the tiller, made a pattern, then traced it and cut it out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mr3JfcVZ2oE/UPGsevOrypI/AAAAAAAABho/gt42aRVs8lE/s1600/tillerpat_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mr3JfcVZ2oE/UPGsevOrypI/AAAAAAAABho/gt42aRVs8lE/s320/tillerpat_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Tiller pattern.</span></td></tr>
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The tiller itself is mortised through the <i>sides </i>of the rudder. I laid out the mortise, then drilled out most of the waste with a forstner bit. I made a router template and cut the mortise with a top bearing bit from both sides, then trued up the hole with a chisel, being careful to square it up in the process.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fcdgpGB3o3I/UPGs-ZQurkI/AAAAAAAABh4/CtFyt3HkDkA/s1600/rudmortise1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fcdgpGB3o3I/UPGs-ZQurkI/AAAAAAAABh4/CtFyt3HkDkA/s320/rudmortise1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The waste is drilled out with a forstner bit from both sides.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzb9pu-G2SI/UPGs-TB2sDI/AAAAAAAABh8/G4MKmxvth5w/s1600/rudmortise2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzb9pu-G2SI/UPGs-TB2sDI/AAAAAAAABh8/G4MKmxvth5w/s320/rudmortise2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Router template.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4UyyIhrPBNc/UPGs96FGByI/AAAAAAAABhw/LcaUsbYlUgE/s1600/rudmortise3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4UyyIhrPBNc/UPGs96FGByI/AAAAAAAABhw/LcaUsbYlUgE/s320/rudmortise3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The mortise is chiseled square and true.</span></td></tr>
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I like to cut the mortise first, then work the tenon on the tiller. Its much easier to fit the tenon to the mortise than the other way around. I actually cut the tenon shoulders with the table saw on the rectangular ash blank before sawing the tiller's curved shape, to make it easy to get square shoulder cuts. Then I sawed the tiller out, and finished up the tenon on the bandsaw and tuned it with a rabbet plane. The tiller is held tight to the rudder with a wedge through the tenon (this is sometimes called a tusk tenon). The mortise has a pitch that matches that of the wedge, which when tightened pulls the shoulders of the tiller's tenon up tight against the rudder.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6XscInaCpQ/UPGwJWwHlqI/AAAAAAAABi4/S-xAcOkSca4/s1600/tillertenon_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p6XscInaCpQ/UPGwJWwHlqI/AAAAAAAABi4/S-xAcOkSca4/s320/tillertenon_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sawing out the tenon on the bandsaw. A rabbet plane will tune the fit<i>.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yprjoQRB6Qk/UPGusxtt0VI/AAAAAAAABiY/l7oyyrZ-jiM/s1600/tiller1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yprjoQRB6Qk/UPGusxtt0VI/AAAAAAAABiY/l7oyyrZ-jiM/s320/tiller1_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiller, tusk tenon, and wedge (made of wenge).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2-Tp2cbbkFw/UPGus8xu6SI/AAAAAAAABic/4QKtsuyWX0E/s1600/tiller2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2-Tp2cbbkFw/UPGus8xu6SI/AAAAAAAABic/4QKtsuyWX0E/s320/tiller2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiller, tusk tenon, and wedge (made of wenge).</td></tr>
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<i></i><br />
I still had to cut and drive the brass pins that secure the gudgeons and serve as axles for the up and down haul sheaves. I cut these just slightly long, drove them through, then peened over both ends to secure them in place.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SARcjgk0wf4/UPGxBcKTChI/AAAAAAAABjA/WJYt7E_uxZ8/s1600/rudpin_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SARcjgk0wf4/UPGxBcKTChI/AAAAAAAABjA/WJYt7E_uxZ8/s320/rudpin_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Gudgeon pins and sheave axles are driven in and peened.</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nfWXx4wPv3M/UPG9dlDzipI/AAAAAAAABns/G6csuZku6kw/s1600/ruduphaul_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nfWXx4wPv3M/UPG9dlDzipI/AAAAAAAABns/G6csuZku6kw/s320/ruduphaul_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I like this picture. This is the up-haul sheave.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vlFHUs7Hmr4/UPGyE0zyU3I/AAAAAAAABjw/ur4lKP50PsQ/s1600/tilconnect1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vlFHUs7Hmr4/UPGyE0zyU3I/AAAAAAAABjw/ur4lKP50PsQ/s320/tilconnect1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Brass hose coupling is epoxied into a hole in the end of the tiller extension.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ewyra9Ug4Uk/UPGyEmnGh4I/AAAAAAAABjo/wqRfUJSSxLY/s1600/tilconnect2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ewyra9Ug4Uk/UPGyEmnGh4I/AAAAAAAABjo/wqRfUJSSxLY/s320/tilconnect2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The male thread is epoxied into each of the two handles.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The next job was to fabricate the tiller extension. This is really just a long push-rod. I decided to make it though, in two parts. One, the basic rod with a universal joint at the tiller end, and two different length extensions to allow some freedom with crew placement fore and aft. I made a long extension to use solo, with the skipper further forward, and a short one to use with the skipper aft, and crew forward. This may or may not prove to be useful, and only time at the helm will tell. But I have the option. To do this, I drilled out the ends of the rod blanks, and epoxied in some threaded air-hose couplings. The two different length extensions have male threads, and the fixed length push-rod has the internal female thread. I drilled these out by hand and eye, but I would have been better off taking more care with a machine setup. The extensions don't sit perfectly, but they are good enough.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jknXGhp5814/UPGyEwbFw6I/AAAAAAAABjs/PlwLFFNqCNk/s1600/tilconnect3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jknXGhp5814/UPGyEwbFw6I/AAAAAAAABjs/PlwLFFNqCNk/s320/tilconnect3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I used a dremel to clean up squeeze-out on the threads.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw9xsKpOino/UPGzYIdyZTI/AAAAAAAABkY/fW4rPkposis/s1600/tilext1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw9xsKpOino/UPGzYIdyZTI/AAAAAAAABkY/fW4rPkposis/s320/tilext1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Tiller extension and long handle are screwed up tight and faired round together.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJhpEuNyDT8/UPGzX5xzCeI/AAAAAAAABkU/EGcpTvtd_zw/s1600/tilext2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HJhpEuNyDT8/UPGzX5xzCeI/AAAAAAAABkU/EGcpTvtd_zw/s320/tilext2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Tiller extension and short handle.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjV-8I0KVxo/UPG0MNzzVzI/AAAAAAAABko/Tv0wG3P7V9s/s1600/tilujoint1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjV-8I0KVxo/UPG0MNzzVzI/AAAAAAAABko/Tv0wG3P7V9s/s320/tilujoint1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Mortise for universal joint fitting.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9rRJGg4fUho/UPG0MHb-uJI/AAAAAAAABks/GFgU4fy3st0/s1600/tilujoint2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9rRJGg4fUho/UPG0MHb-uJI/AAAAAAAABks/GFgU4fy3st0/s320/tilujoint2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">U-joint mounted to pad on tiller.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TtgKLhSV1xo/UPG0L3IvVvI/AAAAAAAABkk/ey3tBXWRSgo/s1600/tilujoint3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TtgKLhSV1xo/UPG0L3IvVvI/AAAAAAAABkk/ey3tBXWRSgo/s320/tilujoint3_web.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">U-joint mounted to pad on tiller.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-niTD4E_4zDA/UPG1_ML9ijI/AAAAAAAABlQ/rLdgYE7843g/s1600/tilext4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-niTD4E_4zDA/UPG1_ML9ijI/AAAAAAAABlQ/rLdgYE7843g/s320/tilext4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Tiller extension with long handle.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPPoYPf7-BY/UPG6MLB88DI/AAAAAAAABmI/QXAWBH2SW-I/s1600/foils.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="115" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPPoYPf7-BY/UPG6MLB88DI/AAAAAAAABmI/QXAWBH2SW-I/s320/foils.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Computer lofted foils. Dagger and rudder.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg6-3csB1-Q/UPG3FeL41GI/AAAAAAAABlc/L1JN4JQSoOo/s1600/daggershape1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg6-3csB1-Q/UPG3FeL41GI/AAAAAAAABlc/L1JN4JQSoOo/s320/daggershape1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The foil shape is marked on the daggerboard's end.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kmL0Uq9bFq0/UPG6mCPCekI/AAAAAAAABmQ/lRePAaKH22w/s1600/daggershape2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kmL0Uq9bFq0/UPG6mCPCekI/AAAAAAAABmQ/lRePAaKH22w/s320/daggershape2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Facets are marked out and planed flat.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pSZVLHlsSTE/UPG6mJ5nPcI/AAAAAAAABmU/eQr7lv9mHZo/s1600/daggershape3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pSZVLHlsSTE/UPG6mJ5nPcI/AAAAAAAABmU/eQr7lv9mHZo/s320/daggershape3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Its a workout with hand tools!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L_hYTFxgqHk/UPG7RB-VaVI/AAAAAAAABmg/IdlOVBiIYvY/s1600/rudshape_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L_hYTFxgqHk/UPG7RB-VaVI/AAAAAAAABmg/IdlOVBiIYvY/s320/rudshape_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">A gouge is used to carve the transition from foil to square section.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYpcD0ArEu0/UPG8Hq_ly-I/AAAAAAAABms/XdtzPxwhoCQ/s1600/mdedagger1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYpcD0ArEu0/UPG8Hq_ly-I/AAAAAAAABms/XdtzPxwhoCQ/s320/mdedagger1_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The sanded daggerboard.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /><br />All of the extension parts are made from spanish cedar, round or oval in section. I cut these out like a spar, eight-siding, then shaving round. I then fitted the universal joint, scavenged from an old Laser tiller, and glued it into the tiller extension's end. This sits on a pad to elevate the push-rod a little (I think my rudder could have been set higher). At this point, I still need to wrap the tiller extension ends tightly with marline and epoxy the lashing, to help strengthen the couplings. The wood tube wall is kind of thin in those locations.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><i></i></span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />With these parts done, I moved on to the rudder blade and daggerboard. I glued up my rough blade blanks (spanish cedar, again) and cut them out as squared rectangles to shape the foil sections. It is better to have the ends square to lay out the foil sections, and any plan-form shaping will be done after shaping the foils. An accurate center line is scribed along all of the edges, and a half-foil template is laid on the line at the foil's end and traced. Note: These foil shapes are my own concoction. I used to loft Naca sections, but now I just draw them out in the computer, based on my required thickness. For these boats, anything close to a foil, and smoothly finished will do.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />To maintain symmetry, a series of flat facets are laid out equally on each side of the board, and dressed flat with whatever tool will get the job done. In my case, I used a drawknife, spokeshave, slick, big fore plane, block planes, and any other edge tool I thought would help, to avoid the dust created by a big grinder. There is a lot of material to remove, so it is a real workout.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />To further complicate matters, each foil has to transition to a square section at the top. The daggerboard has to fit the rectangular trunk opening, and the rudder blade has to pivot inside the rudder cheeks. Also, the transition should be coved, rather than abruptly squared, to prevent creating a stress riser.
</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Once the facets are cut, a spokeshave knocks the hard corners off, much like 16-siding a spar. I then use a shop-made, flexible longboard, sanding diagonally first one way then the other across the grain to curve the sections. When it all looks good, and the transitions are done, I get out the random orbit sander with a nice soft pad and some 120 grit discs, and carefully smooth out the foils. I keep the sander moving, and use a light touch. It works very well. With everything right and smooth, I finally cut the plan-form shapes on the blades. The daggerboard tip was cut at the proper angle, and the leading corner was radiused. These edges were then rounded over and sanded into the foil sections.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_BqRLAjytWA/UPG8IBOKEhI/AAAAAAAABmw/baxaPvE4CrU/s1600/mdedagger3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_BqRLAjytWA/UPG8IBOKEhI/AAAAAAAABmw/baxaPvE4CrU/s320/mdedagger3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Nice foil.</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YU1sRDUNTdI/UPG8rggOLWI/AAAAAAAABnU/76cUqhLSNo8/s1600/rudlayout_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YU1sRDUNTdI/UPG8rggOLWI/AAAAAAAABnU/76cUqhLSNo8/s320/rudlayout_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Rudder layout, with pivot location.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g9oyTsqMwUk/UPG8rT4X8lI/AAAAAAAABnM/kfrgW3phCEY/s1600/rudshape2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g9oyTsqMwUk/UPG8rT4X8lI/AAAAAAAABnM/kfrgW3phCEY/s320/rudshape2_web.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The sanded rudder blade.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kBbBOAtuICE/UPG9K_v6heI/AAAAAAAABnc/g37YKHetNXg/s1600/rudkickup_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kBbBOAtuICE/UPG9K_v6heI/AAAAAAAABnc/g37YKHetNXg/s320/rudkickup_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Rudder in the kicked up position.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YsjpPD0MtUE/UPG9K0pF_YI/AAAAAAAABng/xbTyCftPxe8/s1600/ruddown_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YsjpPD0MtUE/UPG9K0pF_YI/AAAAAAAABng/xbTyCftPxe8/s320/ruddown_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /><br />The rudder was cut out, with a big circle at the top, which rotates inside the rudder core. The bottom was cut, rounded, and shaped just as I did for the daggerboard. I drilled the hole for the pivot bolt, then assembled the rudder to check that everything worked as planned.</span><br />
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That's where we stand now. The dagger and rudder blades will be glassed, with a couple of biaxial layers on their leading edges. The daggerboard will be coated with graphite and epoxy, but the rudder blade will be painted to match the hull. There are still the spars to make, so we have some work ahead of us, but the launch date is approaching. Stay tuned...</span><br />
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<br />Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-74777595460742771442012-11-14T17:03:00.000-05:002012-11-14T17:03:13.671-05:00The Matinicus Double ender- Part 20 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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To start at Part 1, go <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">here</a>.</div>
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The decks are now finish painted, and all that remains deck-wise, are the mooring cleats and skene chocks. We'll look at those in a later post. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H8GrKN4qC6k/UKP_zI6hXZI/AAAAAAAABes/R44vWQU36Fg/s1600/deckfinish2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H8GrKN4qC6k/UKP_zI6hXZI/AAAAAAAABes/R44vWQU36Fg/s320/deckfinish2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished deck.</i></td></tr>
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The shop has had, unusually, a little down time recently so I decided we might jump on the launching dolly project. I don't usually include the boats in our "make work" for the shop, but I didn't really have a shop specific project I wanted to do. Ashok lost a few days work due to the hurricane, and I didn't want him to lose more, so with both motive and opportunity, we tackled the dolly. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R7JLS0UV4bQ/UKQAQ2AGomI/AAAAAAAABe0/2VtlC4nVvCo/s1600/dolly_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="106" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R7JLS0UV4bQ/UKQAQ2AGomI/AAAAAAAABe0/2VtlC4nVvCo/s320/dolly_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This is what the launching dolly will look like with the boat on it.</i></td></tr>
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Launching heavier boats at the club presents some problems. We don't have (and don't want) a ramp for trailers because that would drastically alter the purpose and function of our boating program. For the Boston Whaler (our regatta and Safety Boat), we use the neighboring Yacht Club's ramp, but that only happens twice a year, as the whaler lives at the dock from April to November. The Lasers, Sunfish, and 420 use Seitech dollies. These boats are light enough to slide in and out by hand. My crab skiff <i>Cricket, </i>and others like Chris B's melonseed, and Matthew's flat iron skiff, are too heavy to pick up and put on a dolly. So we use modified dollies, custom built to accommodate our boats. These are like a cross between the Seitech models and true road trailers, and use winches or block and tackle to haul the boats from the water. Cricket's dolly uses Seitech wheels and a carpeted bunk cut to shape. It works okay, but the bunks create a lot of friction, and I still have to lift the bow out of the water and onto the bunk, then crank it up. For <i>Mouse, </i>I needed a better solution, so I designed a dolly with keel rollers and a tongue that extends aft past the axle and bunk. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RGM4EPQUVow/UKQA8hTz_iI/AAAAAAAABe8/HY5vzMGzIjk/s1600/7p_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RGM4EPQUVow/UKQA8hTz_iI/AAAAAAAABe8/HY5vzMGzIjk/s320/7p_1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cricket's dolly.</i></td></tr>
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The dolly has to be as light as possible, but strong and very stiff. If I had the equipment, it would be quick work to weld the thing up in steel or aluminum, but I am a woodworker, and wood we got, so that's what it will be. I designed the main beam (tongue) as a hollow box beam, using 3/8" multi-ply skins, with either ply or solid wood blocking inside where needed for bolts or structure. The axle/bunk is made in halves, with the aluminum axle rod sandwiched and glued in between. The boat-shaped bunk will be built into the axle structure.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tux-Ujo_dV8/UKQBQ2ql5WI/AAAAAAAABfE/vbKDzlOKrX8/s1600/axle1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tux-Ujo_dV8/UKQBQ2ql5WI/AAAAAAAABfE/vbKDzlOKrX8/s320/axle1_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The aluminum axle is sandwiched between two layers of wood.</i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SnoT7fJSfQs/UKQBSAZp1bI/AAAAAAAABfM/u8Dy-pQoJqw/s1600/axle2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SnoT7fJSfQs/UKQBSAZp1bI/AAAAAAAABfM/u8Dy-pQoJqw/s320/axle2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I bought the keel rollers and winch from an online trailer parts store (of which there are many), and had the parts in hand before building the dolly. One important note: the winch ratchets in both directions, a necessity with rollers, as the boat can easily get away from you when launching! I made a pattern of the underside of the boat the last time it was upside down, to use when laying out the dolly. <i>Mouse, </i>if you remember, has a flat plank keel, like a wherry. It measures a little more than 4" wide on the outside, enough to sit flat without falling over (I hope) as I winch it up the dolly. The keel rollers are about 7 3/4" overall, with about 6" clear in the center. The outside edges are raised up to keep the boat centered. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xScwGWs0QiI/UKQBzZIfUAI/AAAAAAAABfU/3h0f3AgLtck/s1600/keelroller_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xScwGWs0QiI/UKQBzZIfUAI/AAAAAAAABfU/3h0f3AgLtck/s320/keelroller_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The keel roller. The slotted flanges will be cut off so the plates can be bolted to the sides of the beam.</i></td></tr>
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The dolly tongue beam measures 8" wide from just forward of the bunk/axle to the aft end which allows the roller brackets to be mounted to the beam sides, with clearance for the rollers in between. I'll mount the rollers as low as I can get them and still clear the beam. I tapered the tongue from the 8" width at the bunk, to 3" at the handle and winch. There is a framed up solid wood core at the handle end, with an internal diagonal brace to address the load from winching the boat. I cut a tapered, bird's mouth relief into the core to relieve the stress riser created from the blunt ends of the core. The picture should make that detail clear. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IypbN1OgTWw/UKQCaEFr4kI/AAAAAAAABfc/M46H3vqu0lI/s1600/tongue1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IypbN1OgTWw/UKQCaEFr4kI/AAAAAAAABfc/M46H3vqu0lI/s320/tongue1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The winch end of the dolly, with its solid wood core...</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tcHK6fjJkso/UKQMYaYQu6I/AAAAAAAABf0/lQv7X6jHuZ8/s1600/tongue2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tcHK6fjJkso/UKQMYaYQu6I/AAAAAAAABf0/lQv7X6jHuZ8/s320/tongue2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>... and both sides (webs) clamped on.</i></td></tr>
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I did not do this on Cricket's dolly and sure enough, the tongue end snapped right there. I had to add on external braces across the joint, which solved the problem, but I wanted to avoid the issue on this one. I have seen a similar treatment of core plugs inside hollow masts, which is where I got the idea (<a href="http://rosslillistonewoodenboat.blogspot.com/2011/04/assembling-birds-mouth-hollow-mast.html">Ross Lillistone's blog</a>).</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px;">The top and bottom skins (flanges) go in between the sides (shear webs), and rest on ply ledgers glued inside, which also serve to bridge the butt joints in the outer skins. These ledgers were glued on first, along with the winch end blocking, then the sides were set up, upside down, and the bottom web was glued and clamped on.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jMnBjCUkmcI/UKQMbReaZDI/AAAAAAAABf8/4Brl-WT6sY8/s1600/tongue3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jMnBjCUkmcI/UKQMbReaZDI/AAAAAAAABf8/4Brl-WT6sY8/s320/tongue3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Clamping up the bottom flange (on the top in this photo).</i></td></tr>
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We fit the top web dry, and clamped it all up. When that cured, we flipped it back right side up, and removed the dry fitted top web so that we could organize and fit the rest of the little bulkheads and blocking. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jPi1C8Xmkfc/UKQOELo94xI/AAAAAAAABgM/t-zovU0hav4/s1600/tongue5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jPi1C8Xmkfc/UKQOELo94xI/AAAAAAAABgM/t-zovU0hav4/s320/tongue5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>We flipped the beam right side up to fit internal blocking. The notch for the axle/bunk can be seen here.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0K5kbhaTlfM/UKQOFtVyE7I/AAAAAAAABgU/F1mVj8Z835Q/s1600/tongue6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0K5kbhaTlfM/UKQOFtVyE7I/AAAAAAAABgU/F1mVj8Z835Q/s320/tongue6_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Blocking is glued in where needed for keel roller bolts, etc.</i></td></tr>
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With that done, we glued on the top flange. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rN5ue0v-fZg/UKQOJNFDInI/AAAAAAAABgk/t-qpyujVihI/s1600/tongue8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rN5ue0v-fZg/UKQOJNFDInI/AAAAAAAABgk/t-qpyujVihI/s320/tongue8_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The top flange is glued and clamped, closing in the beam.</i></td></tr>
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The structure kind of looks like a DN iceboat hull, and is built similarly. Some catamaran cross beams are built this way, too. In fact, my single outrigger akas were built just like this, except the top and bottom flanges were laminated into a curve before assembling the beams. The beauty of this closed type of beam, over an open "I" beam, is the much increased torsional resistance they exhibit. Probably overkill for this use, but I do enjoy building engineered structures. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHUXX0bi0mw/UKQPtNzKx8I/AAAAAAAABg0/6W7Nh4K7Kd8/s1600/Onbeach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iHUXX0bi0mw/UKQPtNzKx8I/AAAAAAAABg0/6W7Nh4K7Kd8/s320/Onbeach.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Curved outrigger box beams (akas). Light, stiff, and strong!</i></td></tr>
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I notched the beam to fit over the axle structure, which will also be notched, creating a half lap joint. I won't finish the axle/bunk until I mount the keel rollers. I need this done to figure the correct height for the bunk. That process will be covered next time. </div>
Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-74100779999451863332012-08-11T18:28:00.001-04:002012-08-11T18:28:32.616-04:00The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 19To start at Part 1, go <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">HERE</a>.<br />
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Smallish post this time, but progress is fairly steady. I've been varnishing the coaming, oarlock pads, and painting the sheer strake (finally). The coaming finish is straight forward. Getting the light right to see the wet edge is always a challenge, and I ended up putting a light source inside the boat to see if that helps, and it's a toss up as to whether its worth fiddling with it. I intend to finsh varnishing the oarlock pads, coaming, and rub rail before painting the deck, so I'm putting a coat on each night.<br />
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The sheer strake has gone through a couple of different ideas, color wise, since the beginning. I thought I would paint it dark blue, and that would look nice, but I got to thinking it was too fussy, so I changed my mind to Hatteras Off White (an Interlux color). I put that on, and couldn't stand it. Next to the gray hull, it looked too yellow. I stopped by West Marine while I was en route between jobsites, and paid their ridiculous price for a new quart of bright white. <a href="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64&familyName=Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane">Jamestown Distributors</a> has the same thing for $10 a quart less!<br />
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Anyway, the sheer is done, for now.<br />
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The photos don't do it justice, the gray hull with white sheer is quite nice! I saw this scheme in WoodenBoat, on someone's Oughtred Grey Seal, and like its' understated "yachtiness". It's yare for sure. I'll be happy to finally get rid of that pink occume when I paint the deck.<br />
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'Til then, then.Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-80359930198913198862012-07-31T17:46:00.000-04:002012-07-31T17:46:10.770-04:00The Matinicus double Ender- Part 18<br />
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The coamings required some of the trickiest fits yet, short of the frames. The frames were harder, but there was less at stake because they were painted into the boat, whereas the coamings are finished bright. Any misses will be obvious under varnish. Preparation for the decks and coamings began early, and I covered some of this in previous posts. Deck layout was covered in <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2011/02/building-matinicus-double-ender-part-7.html">Part 7</a>, and the curved beams and coaming lamination were covered in <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2012/02/building-matinicus-double-ender-part-12.html">Part 12</a>. The curved coaming pieces have been hanging up in the shop, waiting for me to get back to them.</div>
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A brief description of the concept is in order, though. The curved parts at each end are laminated from 7 layers of 1/16" vertical grain sapele veneer. The two straight parts are re-sawn from a 5/4 v.g. sapele board, to make two sides, and finished to 7/16" to match the curved bits. The joins from curved to straight are half lapped, with a joint length of 2". I did not make patterns for any of it, but marked and cut the pieces straight from the boat. The curved pieces were hung with with clamps, and temp. screwed so that they would return to their exact location after cutting. I was only concerned with the end cuts of each piece at first. I waited until all pieces were fit and joined before cutting any of it to final width, leaving plenty of room for all the pieces to move up or down to tune the joints. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-74BIcoSdt8M/UBhLgTj9t8I/AAAAAAAABJs/wznonCvQT9M/s1600/coamingfit4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="199" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-74BIcoSdt8M/UBhLgTj9t8I/AAAAAAAABJs/wznonCvQT9M/s320/coamingfit4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The curved ends are clamped up and marked for cutting. </i></td></tr>
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I first decided where I wanted the joins to be, and marked this location on the ends of the curved pieces. I know its fast to make this kind of cut by hand, but I've got a great sliding table saw with all kinds of hold downs only six feet away, so that's how I made the end cuts.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LO9S8K2JiXo/UBhMAmuRlBI/AAAAAAAABJ0/vCHptIA9hA8/s1600/coamingfit5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LO9S8K2JiXo/UBhMAmuRlBI/AAAAAAAABJ0/vCHptIA9hA8/s320/coamingfit5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I have a great table saw, might as well use it!</i></td></tr>
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I used a router with a top bearing cutter and scrap mdf for a guide, clamped to the coaming. I hardly ever use this one, but the ancient old vintage Stanley router had the right cutter in the collet already, so I dug it out. This thing is at least 50 or 60 years old, and is fun to look at, plus it works fine. The big wing nut that tightens the motor in the base has never worn out. The D handle Porter Cables all have replacement bolts with nuts because the aluminum wing nuts they come with wear out so quickly. I set the depth a little shy of half way, and tuned the cut with a rabbet plane afterwards. Half way through the center veneer is a handy visual reference for the correct depth of the first half of the joint. These cuts were made fairly quickly, and the coamings hung with temp. screws.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fZwizqfGDUQ/UBhMCGEmO-I/AAAAAAAABJ8/tXVB5fbhI70/s1600/coamingfit6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fZwizqfGDUQ/UBhMCGEmO-I/AAAAAAAABJ8/tXVB5fbhI70/s320/coamingfit6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The vintage Stanley. </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pLJUzQ_BE8/UBhMEELmx6I/AAAAAAAABKE/PR-VPDJQqSM/s1600/coamingfit7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pLJUzQ_BE8/UBhMEELmx6I/AAAAAAAABKE/PR-VPDJQqSM/s320/coamingfit7_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The half lap is evident here on the curved end, where it joins to the straight part.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QA901_ILQlU/UBhMFG2G8hI/AAAAAAAABKM/4ZVx5GzcKgk/s1600/coamingfit8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QA901_ILQlU/UBhMFG2G8hI/AAAAAAAABKM/4ZVx5GzcKgk/s320/coamingfit8_web.jpg" width="299" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>If you look close, you can see the cut is half way through the middle veneer layer.</i></td></tr>
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I next clamped one of the straight parts in the boat, and roughly marked out the sheer curve and length (left a couple of inches long). At this point, I just wanted plenty of width to work with, so they appear quite high in the pictures.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wdayokjtI3Y/UBhN3WLI14I/AAAAAAAABKU/zlQD9A8VtLM/s1600/coamingfit1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="217" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wdayokjtI3Y/UBhN3WLI14I/AAAAAAAABKU/zlQD9A8VtLM/s320/coamingfit1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The straight pieces are clamped in, to determine their length.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0qnv3PLOHCo/UBhONZyuolI/AAAAAAAABKc/JEUDsERRpyQ/s1600/coamingfit9_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0qnv3PLOHCo/UBhONZyuolI/AAAAAAAABKc/JEUDsERRpyQ/s320/coamingfit9_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This shows the amount of sheer curve there is to cut.</i></td></tr>
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I figured out the correct angle of the end cut on these straight pieces, and made the half lap in one end, checking the fit of the joint on the boat. The first one's easy. The trick is getting the exact length of the piece figured out, to make the joint at the other end. The piece won't fit until every little bit of curve is clamped into the coaming, and there it gets too short real fast. What I did was transfer a reference mark from the deck to the outside of the coaming piece. I then took a thin scrap of ply and butted it to the join at the other end (with the correct angle cut on the end of this stick), bent it tightly around the carlin, and marked the reference on the ply. I lined up the reference mark from the ply piece to the actual coaming, and marked the end cut (at the proper angle), but I also added 1/8" to the length, hedging my bets. I cut that half lap, and hung the coaming back in the boat. It came out longer than the extra 1/8", but it was fairly easy to mark the correct length the second time, and re-cut the joint. The piece won't fit, as I said before, until every bit of the curve is in the piece. I used a mallet and a block to drive the first end tightly in place, and finally was able to snap the section in. I ended up fussing and tuning these joints quite a bit before I was finally satisfied, though on the next one I was more cavalier in my approach. I will admit to needing a tiny shim on the outboard port side aft, but its matched well, and is not noticeable at all.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oG_nAFgAS80/UBhO1TfEMKI/AAAAAAAABKk/XQmQo-mqhJc/s1600/coamingfit10_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oG_nAFgAS80/UBhO1TfEMKI/AAAAAAAABKk/XQmQo-mqhJc/s320/coamingfit10_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The half lap fits well. The top and bottom cuts will bring everything to a fair line.</i></td></tr>
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With the joints all fitted, I marked out the top and bottom cuts around the entire perimeter of the coaming. I made up a gauge block to find the bottom edge, since this was a constant height below the deck. This block has a slot to fit over the coaming, a leg that rides on the deck, and a longer leg that hangs done inside the boat. By running this block all around the boat, the lower edge is marked. I also put a screw reference mark on the jig, to keep the screw heights consistent (the fore and aft spacing of the screws was already marked out).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IgpFFFXeo8U/UBhPcAsh-EI/AAAAAAAABKs/cCx4rgF-UTo/s1600/coamingfit11_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IgpFFFXeo8U/UBhPcAsh-EI/AAAAAAAABKs/cCx4rgF-UTo/s320/coamingfit11_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A simple height gauge block to mark the bottom edge of the coaming.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-naxAMmjMR8w/UBhPc9ohOBI/AAAAAAAABK0/WJ43HayC4Es/s1600/coamingfit12_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-naxAMmjMR8w/UBhPc9ohOBI/AAAAAAAABK0/WJ43HayC4Es/s320/coamingfit12_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The gauge in use. Note the tick mark for screw heights.</i></td></tr>
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The top cut was marked with a simpler gauge block that just rode around the deck. I cut the coaming 3/4" above the deck, no higher than the oarlock pads so as not to interfere with the oars. In the curved ends, I sprung in a little more height to give the deck more shape. The transition is tricky, and I did the best I could. Its not perfect, but it looks pretty good.</div>
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I then had to pull everything back out of the boat, and cut the top and bottom lines on the four pieces of coaming. I also rounded over all the edges, except right at the half laps, where there would be some final fairing to do after glueing it all in place. One trick I've learned when bonding bright finished pieces with epoxy, is to pre-sand and seal everything with a coat of shellac. This keeps epoxy off of the wood, and out of the grain, making for a much cleaner installation. I tape off the areas to be bonded of course, before shellacking. I mix my own shellac fresh, using amber flakes and Bekhol, and use about a 2 lb. cut for sealing.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWKkC74jLmw/UBhPeCgJSHI/AAAAAAAABK8/Ov1o6bnnLfE/s1600/coamingfit13_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GWKkC74jLmw/UBhPeCgJSHI/AAAAAAAABK8/Ov1o6bnnLfE/s320/coamingfit13_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished coaming parts get a coat of shellac.</i></td></tr>
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After shellacking, I pulled off the tape, and reapplied it to mask off the areas around around the glue joint. I also masked off the deck, to keep that as clean as possible, and papered the boat interior as well. I'm a stickler for keeping epoxy off the boat. It pays off in spades down the road. Two of us glued up all the pieces of the coaming in one go. Help was nearly mandatory for this job, springing in and driving all the gluey parts home, then cleaning up the squeeze out. It took us 2-1/2 hours, start to finish. After curing, I faired all the transitions, and that's where we are now. I'm very happy with the grain match between the laminated veneers and the solid sapele stock. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYNkcYsiEds/UBhQm5rrTvI/AAAAAAAABLE/t_GwdFtGvYg/s1600/coamingfit14_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYNkcYsiEds/UBhQm5rrTvI/AAAAAAAABLE/t_GwdFtGvYg/s320/coamingfit14_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>All four parts were glued on in one go.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wn2R4SI9TCw/UBhQoBkcu5I/AAAAAAAABLM/w5uQkuYm4mo/s1600/coamingfit16_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wn2R4SI9TCw/UBhQoBkcu5I/AAAAAAAABLM/w5uQkuYm4mo/s320/coamingfit16_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The transitions at the laps were faired and sanded.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A0yzTh5ZKzQ/UBhQpZ33z8I/AAAAAAAABLU/Q77IyWG5gT0/s1600/coamingfit17_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A0yzTh5ZKzQ/UBhQpZ33z8I/AAAAAAAABLU/Q77IyWG5gT0/s320/coamingfit17_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Except for bunging and varnishing, the coamings are done!</i></td></tr>
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I still need to bung all the fastener holes, and re-seal the sanded bits and trimmed off bungs before varnishing. I may go ahead and paint the deck next. We're getting closer!</div>
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Stay tuned...</div>Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-78894335183891769962012-07-27T15:15:00.000-04:002012-07-27T15:15:11.107-04:00The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 17<br />
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To view Part 1, click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">HERE</a>.</div>
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First, a little interesting news- Back in May, I submitted a photo to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/JamestownDistributors">Jamestown Distributors Facebook</a> page for a contest they were running, and won $100 worth of merchandise! I had a funny feeling when I sent it in that it might win. I don't know how long this link will be active, but for now it is. Also, there is talk of including the photo and maybe a little editorial background info in their 2013 catalog. We'll have to wait and see. Meanwhile...</div>
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As I mentioned previously, I have to wait to paint the sheer strake until the last fasteners are in, and this means fitting support blocks for the big stand-up rowlocks. These are monumental things that have a big lever arm, so what holds them up has to be pretty strong. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss9PfQjqwKI/UBLevkHGu8I/AAAAAAAABHw/R4GZvG8RMm0/s1600/J_oars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="284" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss9PfQjqwKI/UBLevkHGu8I/AAAAAAAABHw/R4GZvG8RMm0/s320/J_oars.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>These rowlocks are 15" long, with a 5 1/4" shaft!</i></td></tr>
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The stand-up locks share the same oarlock pads as the forward most rowlocks. They should be installed fairly close to the center of the boat which will allow pushing the boat either bow or stern first. Mine worked out to be about 6" forward of amidship. There is comfortable standing space aft of the dagger trunk to push the boat with the oars facing forward, but probably not so comfortable facing aft, because of the forward thwart. We'll see how this all works out. </div>
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To start with, I plotted the oarlocks' positions on the deck. I put the center of each lock about 12" aft of the aft edge of the thwart. On this boat, there are two sitting positions, pulling either two or four oars, and a single stand-up position as I mentioned previously. Because of the length of the stand-up shafts, and the flare of the sheer strake, some careful layout was needed to make sure there was room for the shaft to pass through it's support block, and not hit the inside of the plank. I laid this out in section, full size, to find the location of the pads on deck. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQwi44Zk-DI/UBLfttYfS7I/AAAAAAAABH4/zmqi5q13464/s1600/layout_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OQwi44Zk-DI/UBLfttYfS7I/AAAAAAAABH4/zmqi5q13464/s320/layout_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This is a murky photo of the full size layout, on a scrap of mdf.</i></td></tr>
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The pads elevate the locks a little above the deck, and provide more bearing for the lock casting than just the decks would. The pads must be curved to fit the deck in plan, and tweaked a little where they bear on the deck to address the very slight twist and concavity as the deck follows the sheer curve. I first made patterns for both sets of pads, and laid out the lock centers on them. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_J1rOwVyUKQ/UBLgaiLsTpI/AAAAAAAABIA/pJ0FchfcuVA/s1600/oarlock1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_J1rOwVyUKQ/UBLgaiLsTpI/AAAAAAAABIA/pJ0FchfcuVA/s320/oarlock1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Oarlocks, patterns for the pads, and the pads themselves.</i></td></tr>
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The pads need a little profile shape so as not to look clunky, and a long ogee works well for that. I happened to have an appropriate pattern for the edge shape from a previous boat, and dug that out. I made the pads from sapele, to match the coamings and rub rails, sawing out the plan curve first, then the profile shape. I cleaned up the ogee cuts on the spindle sander. The aft pads have just one hole for the oarlock casting, but the forward pads have this hole, plus the bore for the stand-up lock. The stand-ups go through wood only. I planned the bores in the pads to be perpendicular to their top surfaces. These were drilled out on the drill press, along with the fastener holes for the pads themselves. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDt2z_UyMVU/UBLgzGYC8-I/AAAAAAAABII/Lqqap5YLzHI/s1600/oarlock2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tDt2z_UyMVU/UBLgzGYC8-I/AAAAAAAABII/Lqqap5YLzHI/s320/oarlock2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The pads are bored on the drill press.</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wk85yY6dwLk/UBLhzaQbn-I/AAAAAAAABIQ/k384luqctho/s1600/oarlock4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wk85yY6dwLk/UBLhzaQbn-I/AAAAAAAABIQ/k384luqctho/s320/oarlock4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The full set of oarlocks and pads. the pads are shellac sealed.</i></td></tr>
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Instead of wood screws, I bored for #10 flat head machine screws. I should mention here that I glued on ply doublers under the deck in way of the pads, for extra stiffness. I clamped the pads on the deck, and bored through the deck for the fasteners. The forward pads have an extra set of machine screws through the bronze lock castings, to provide yet more support for the stand-ups. I then put in all the screws and ran the nuts and washers up tight, and bored the shaft holes through the deck, using the pad bores to keep everything lined up. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tWSBwfcDF6c/UBLicUAPprI/AAAAAAAABIY/NjXKGHSAiYk/s1600/oarlock5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tWSBwfcDF6c/UBLicUAPprI/AAAAAAAABIY/NjXKGHSAiYk/s320/oarlock5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The forward starboard oarlock pad, prior to boring out the deck.</i></td></tr>
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Next I made the stand-up support blocks that get fastened to the inside of the planking. These are sapele also, but were painted to match the inside of the hull. The bore for these blocks is at an angle, which I found in the full size layout that I did. I tilted the table on the drill press, and bored the blocks before shaping them to somewhat of an oval. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8SKd-FyQ4Q/UBLjDX2HHrI/AAAAAAAABIg/RJcj8LbJ8_8/s1600/standup1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I8SKd-FyQ4Q/UBLjDX2HHrI/AAAAAAAABIg/RJcj8LbJ8_8/s320/standup1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Stand-up rowlock support block.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPcSVQ4Fehs/UBLj0GLsFHI/AAAAAAAABIo/bRBIosfwG6U/s1600/standup2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPcSVQ4Fehs/UBLj0GLsFHI/AAAAAAAABIo/bRBIosfwG6U/s320/standup2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The support blocks, before lanyard holes were drilled.</i></td></tr>
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It occurred to me (not too late for once) to also bore small holes for rowlock lanyards. These lanyards keep the locks from being lost overboard (I have a good $300 in oarlock hardware on this boat!). Inside the boat, I taped off the locations of the support blocks, and sanded away the paint for a good epoxy bond to the plank. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RbKtHa8xSQ/UBLj1Nlov3I/AAAAAAAABIw/0UtQ2tK1ydk/s1600/standup5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4RbKtHa8xSQ/UBLj1Nlov3I/AAAAAAAABIw/0UtQ2tK1ydk/s320/standup5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Paint is sanded away to permit bonding of the support block.</i></td></tr>
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Before gluing them in though, I primed and painted the blocks, and carefully checked the fit of the rowlock shafts through the pads and blocks. I then installed them with screws through the planking. Now I can paint the sheer strake at any time.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5nt4WLnatjo/UBLkmPzvWlI/AAAAAAAABI4/SdSv1RDn3_0/s1600/standup3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5nt4WLnatjo/UBLkmPzvWlI/AAAAAAAABI4/SdSv1RDn3_0/s320/standup3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The fit is checked...</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xeRec2bXlls/UBLknHFwn7I/AAAAAAAABJA/V2Kyk3zdfKY/s1600/standup6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xeRec2bXlls/UBLknHFwn7I/AAAAAAAABJA/V2Kyk3zdfKY/s320/standup6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>... and the blocks are painted prior to installation (note lanyard holes).</i></td></tr>
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I'll put several coats of varnish on the pads, and finish-paint the deck before permanently installing them. I don't want to glue these on, but will bed them right on the painted deck with an oil base bedding compound. I had glued Cricket's pads on with epoxy, then had to chop them off with a big chisel when I wasn't satisfied with their placement. Live and learn!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-llS1kk4AA/UBLlYZELhrI/AAAAAAAABJI/crxP-LGZyX0/s1600/oarlock6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-llS1kk4AA/UBLlYZELhrI/AAAAAAAABJI/crxP-LGZyX0/s320/oarlock6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The starboard aft pad, in position.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wccy06PLtI/UBLlprmu7fI/AAAAAAAABJQ/7uD8g8FkfXk/s1600/oarlock7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wccy06PLtI/UBLlprmu7fI/AAAAAAAABJQ/7uD8g8FkfXk/s320/oarlock7_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The oarlock locations are evident in this shot.</i></td></tr>
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A final note, while we are on the subject of oars. I've been thinking about what style oars I might make for this boat, out of what material, and how much time it will take, when out of the blue a nice pair of Shaw and Tenney's of the right length, kind of materialized. Ashok, my shop assistant was up in the Catskills on vacation and stumbled on a perfect pair, in an antique store of all places. The oars are quite old (maybe 30 or 40 years?) and belonged to the proprietor's dad, but they were little used, and have only a patina to show their age. $125! Quite a good deal. These oars have copper tips too, and are leathered and buttoned. The grips seem a trifle short, and I wonder if they were cut at some time to fit in a particular space. Anyway, we'll see how they work and I can always add a little length to the grips later if need be. For now though, that's one less thing to worry about. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0T8SdS1B-RQ/UBLmInEDvYI/AAAAAAAABJY/AeXG8kk18pg/s1600/oars_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0T8SdS1B-RQ/UBLmInEDvYI/AAAAAAAABJY/AeXG8kk18pg/s320/oars_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A pair of 8' Shaw and Tenney spruce oars.</i></td></tr>
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Stay tuned...</div>Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-80905075623462615632012-07-26T17:16:00.000-04:002012-07-26T17:16:11.353-04:00Building The Matinicus DoubleEnder- Part 16<br />
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I've actually been moving along on the boat, but I'm woefully behind on the blog posts. I hope to catch up soon, and I am going to make an effort to keep up with it, and also to add some non Matinicus posts. I've been working on a new boatbuilding shop at Sebago, a very nice 800 square foot shop with big sliding doors and benches, etc. but more on that down the road.</div>
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For now, let me catch us up quickly with some exterior hull painting that I completed a couple of months ago. Before painting, I covered the plank keel with a single layer of 6 oz glass (for abrasion), and wrapped the interior of the daggerboard cut out as well. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ifydUsLkBdM/UBGx6xJzEVI/AAAAAAAABHE/V4HiK4_xwqc/s1600/glass1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ifydUsLkBdM/UBGx6xJzEVI/AAAAAAAABHE/V4HiK4_xwqc/s320/glass1_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Glassing the keel.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-64pdLD4u_cU/UBGx8EGq0JI/AAAAAAAABHM/7AYfw3yhIhw/s1600/glass2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-64pdLD4u_cU/UBGx8EGq0JI/AAAAAAAABHM/7AYfw3yhIhw/s320/glass2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Glass is also folded down into the dagger slot.</i></td></tr>
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The interior of the dagger trunk was covered in glass cloth before I put it together, so the keel cutout application completed the covering. I scuff-sanded the glass, and filled the weave with a thin fairing mix, then faired in the overlaps before painting with Petit primer/underbody. I spent a bit of time filling screw holes and touching up the lower plank scarfs. I had glued up the first few plank scarfs right on the boat, but was not happy with that result, so subsequent planks were scarfed on the bench (or floor) before hanging. This was a much better method, at least for me. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A9ut6i74BXU/UBGyhh3Xu1I/AAAAAAAABHU/e8TCnYo1HQY/s1600/paint3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A9ut6i74BXU/UBGyhh3Xu1I/AAAAAAAABHU/e8TCnYo1HQY/s320/paint3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Petit primer/underbody is applied and sanded out.</i></td></tr>
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I then sanded out the primer with 220 tri-m-ite. I was surprised at how many scratches and what-not that it filled. I probably could have used another coat of underbody, but I felt like it was good enough. The proof is in the finish, and that speaks for itself!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2sUmI_aPYk/UBGyiyTD21I/AAAAAAAABHc/yTZBC5ordwo/s1600/paint4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2sUmI_aPYk/UBGyiyTD21I/AAAAAAAABHc/yTZBC5ordwo/s320/paint4_web.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Petit "mist grey" easypoxy.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZ7phs0NvRE/UBGyjinmJ_I/AAAAAAAABHk/A2bz8C4MsC8/s1600/paint5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VZ7phs0NvRE/UBGyjinmJ_I/AAAAAAAABHk/A2bz8C4MsC8/s320/paint5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Petit "mist grey" easypoxy.</i></td></tr>
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This is three coats of Petit Easypoxy Mist Grey. The sheer strake will be Hatteras White, which I'll do after fastening the stand-up oar lock support blocks. That is what we'll do next.</div>Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-72949315059801634812012-04-27T14:38:00.000-04:002012-04-27T14:38:28.644-04:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender - Part 15<br />
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I've been making steady progress on <i>Mouse </i>over the last few weeks. I'm actually almost done painting the outside, after flipping the boat over, but that bit will have to wait until I catch the blog up to the present. Here's a little sneak preview. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z23quMkokY8/T5rfW6SkksI/AAAAAAAAA3M/G7NiIRTyMbI/s1600/paint1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z23quMkokY8/T5rfW6SkksI/AAAAAAAAA3M/G7NiIRTyMbI/s320/paint1_web.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>First coat of paint! More later...</i></td></tr>
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But backtracking a little, one thing that needed doing was the drain plug. I bought a nifty "T" handle plug from Hamilton, but I didn't like the hull fitting it came with. I substituted a common 1/2" plumbing nipple, cutting it in half and bedding it in epoxy, in an oversized hole. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K_E8T-lM7OA/T5rf2evDg9I/AAAAAAAAA3U/HSJsDnlc-rw/s1600/drain3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K_E8T-lM7OA/T5rf2evDg9I/AAAAAAAAA3U/HSJsDnlc-rw/s320/drain3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The "T" handle plug, and sawn off nipple.<br /></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></span></td></tr>
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I actually had to drill 3 holes to set this up. The first 1-1/4" hole was bored just deep enough from inside the bottom to bring the nipple flush with the inside.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u8BwbRblzYw/T5rgEOxzLkI/AAAAAAAAA3c/RyreOlh6iV4/s1600/drain1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u8BwbRblzYw/T5rgEOxzLkI/AAAAAAAAA3c/RyreOlh6iV4/s320/drain1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A stepped mortise was bored for the nipple and drain hole.</i></td></tr>
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Before installing it, I bored a second 3/4" hole all the way through the hull, and filled that hole up with thickened epoxy. I then taped off the underside of the nipple (to keep epoxy out of the threaded inside) and set it in thickened epoxy. When cured, I drilled a 5/8" hole back through the epoxy bushing that I had earlier cast. The drain goes through the boat, but all of the wood is completely sealed with epoxy.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kjxrsoaOKDI/T5rg2Of7SVI/AAAAAAAAA3k/Vhg02YtTonM/s1600/drain2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kjxrsoaOKDI/T5rg2Of7SVI/AAAAAAAAA3k/Vhg02YtTonM/s320/drain2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This old duck was used as a prop to keep the drain assembly upright while the epoxy cured.</i></td></tr>
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I had previously finished the decking, and trimmed it off flush with the hull, so it was then time to install the rub-rails. I had a nice piece of 4/4 sapele to use, and this I ripped up and scarfed together to make a pair of rails. The wood was so stable, it didn't move a millimeter after ripping. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BnPmZe94RxQ/T5rhXVQoclI/AAAAAAAAA3s/Rvgzm8eWPGM/s1600/rail1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BnPmZe94RxQ/T5rhXVQoclI/AAAAAAAAA3s/Rvgzm8eWPGM/s320/rail1_web.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A nice piece of sapele!</i></td></tr>
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I used my old (20 years at least) scarfing jig to plane the tapers, and glued up both pieces on a flat table. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p3I92Vivcb0/T5rhr4H0WNI/AAAAAAAAA30/3ft2-1tlc3w/s1600/rail2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p3I92Vivcb0/T5rhr4H0WNI/AAAAAAAAA30/3ft2-1tlc3w/s320/rail2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>8:1 scarfing jig.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCBrOlcnvQU/T5rhtHS20fI/AAAAAAAAA38/OMRGdb3QRE4/s1600/rail3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCBrOlcnvQU/T5rhtHS20fI/AAAAAAAAA38/OMRGdb3QRE4/s320/rail3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished scarf.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cWJY7j8G0iA/T5riELU_HzI/AAAAAAAAA4E/HDC4-j_vqv8/s1600/rail4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cWJY7j8G0iA/T5riELU_HzI/AAAAAAAAA4E/HDC4-j_vqv8/s320/rail4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The scarfing bench. Flat, with straight edges to aid in aligning the pieces to be scarfed.</i></td></tr>
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Before fitting the rub-rails though, I went ahead and trimmed the stem-heads to final shape. I made patterns of the stems in thin ply, and transferred the layout to the boat, in ink so I could see it. I cut the shapes out as close as I could with a hand saw, chisels, and gouges (for the hollow bits), finishing up with a rasp and sandpaper. As a sidebar, I recently bought one of the newer hand-cut rasps from <a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com//Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-CMRASP.XX&Category_Code=TRR">Gramercy Tools</a>, and I love it. These are more affordable than the Ariou rasps, and are beautifully sharp and well balanced. I'll have the set eventually!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GypmCCjqph4/T5rieqr-vzI/AAAAAAAAA4M/nOylU8J4hzw/s1600/stemhd1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GypmCCjqph4/T5rieqr-vzI/AAAAAAAAA4M/nOylU8J4hzw/s320/stemhd1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bow stem pattern.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WIoxRV_fkjQ/T5rif3kYDuI/AAAAAAAAA4U/smfnZ9NF9aQ/s1600/stemhd2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WIoxRV_fkjQ/T5rif3kYDuI/AAAAAAAAA4U/smfnZ9NF9aQ/s320/stemhd2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Marked out in ink and sawed close.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VtjoCmhcM0/T5rihN8Rj0I/AAAAAAAAA4c/9JUC1vjJAIc/s1600/stemhd3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VtjoCmhcM0/T5rihN8Rj0I/AAAAAAAAA4c/9JUC1vjJAIc/s320/stemhd3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cut to the line with chisels and gouges.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7alD6A5IpGY/T5riimvsOJI/AAAAAAAAA4k/7odY9jPMdRA/s1600/stemhd4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7alD6A5IpGY/T5riimvsOJI/AAAAAAAAA4k/7odY9jPMdRA/s320/stemhd4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished bow stem.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vW9KhevWQ6g/T5rijnjYmGI/AAAAAAAAA4s/7J3egDh16Kw/s1600/stemhd5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vW9KhevWQ6g/T5rijnjYmGI/AAAAAAAAA4s/7J3egDh16Kw/s320/stemhd5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished stern stem.</i></td></tr>
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The rub-rails are a little tricky to fit, in that the ends have a compound bevel and have to be the exact right length. I often do this with patterns, but I was in a hurry, so I went for it, cutting the ends right on the boat without unclamping them completely. I measured the angles with two bevels, marked them out and made the cuts. They came out reasonably accurate, and I saved a pile of time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1EelK8rnT08/T5rjnqIceGI/AAAAAAAAA40/iLvhhA6HqYs/s1600/rail5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1EelK8rnT08/T5rjnqIceGI/AAAAAAAAA40/iLvhhA6HqYs/s320/rail5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I sawed the ends right on the boat.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s3UXnyGCTVA/T5rj1xQvolI/AAAAAAAAA48/8EsU7PC-gEI/s1600/rail6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s3UXnyGCTVA/T5rj1xQvolI/AAAAAAAAA48/8EsU7PC-gEI/s320/rail6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>They fit pretty good. Its clear from this photo that the rails must be tapered.</i></td></tr>
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After fitting the ends, I tapered the pieces in both thickness (siding) and in width (molding). They look much better tapered than straight, and anyway would have projected beyond the stem cutwaters, making it mandatory. I spaced out fasteners for the rails and bored the countersinks, then radiused the edges (the radius is tapered as well). To keep the rails clean during installation, I sealed them with a coat of amber shellac. I installed the rails with stainless screws, and bunged the counter-bores with plugs made on the drill press from a tapered plug cutter (the best).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9cG7Kdqd8gw/T5rkarHYohI/AAAAAAAAA5E/JAn-nctJaWM/s1600/rail7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9cG7Kdqd8gw/T5rkarHYohI/AAAAAAAAA5E/JAn-nctJaWM/s320/rail7_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tapered, radiused, bored, and sealed with shellac.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hpyezsG2HXY/T5rkbxPzloI/AAAAAAAAA5M/YmMabNIpF10/s1600/rail8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hpyezsG2HXY/T5rkbxPzloI/AAAAAAAAA5M/YmMabNIpF10/s320/rail8_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Screwed and bunged!</i></td></tr>
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I had now gotten about as far with the interior and deck as I wanted, and decided to go ahead and flip her upside down for fairing and finish painting. I gathered some help again, and we lifted her off the cradle. I'm quite pleased with her weight so far. Two of us could pick her up easily, and set her on the floor. We did get more help for flipping, though. No need for testosterone here; too much is at stake! It was fun to get a different view of the boat though, and sitting on the floor heeled over gave me better feel for her shape. I added cross pieces to the cradle and we flipped her right over onto foam pads at the gunwales.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UZVr7XwiepI/T5rlVI9NLWI/AAAAAAAAA5U/T0fs2D_NbWo/s1600/flip1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UZVr7XwiepI/T5rlVI9NLWI/AAAAAAAAA5U/T0fs2D_NbWo/s320/flip1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Free at last, temporarily.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hsQuxNduePM/T5rlWcpRUNI/AAAAAAAAA5c/KL7XNDVDRy0/s1600/flip2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hsQuxNduePM/T5rlWcpRUNI/AAAAAAAAA5c/KL7XNDVDRy0/s320/flip2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Stern view. Ashok is putting on the cradle supports.</i></td></tr>
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I've now done a lot of fairing, sanding, and painting, and I also put a layer of glass on the keel, but that report will have to wait for a bit. I won't be so long though, in getting the next post out. 'Til then...</div>Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-73537879284893078862012-04-03T17:33:00.000-04:002012-04-03T17:33:46.053-04:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 14I'm quite behind in my blog posts. There has been some progress over the last month, but I just haven't gotten around to the blog. If there's anyone left out there, I'll catch us up...<br />
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Decking the Matinicus has proved to be one of the easiest and most straight forward jobs on the boat yet. I bought two sheets of 6mm ply as I was not sure how I would cut them out. But in the end, I decided to make the deck in 4 large pieces, with seams down the centerline at the ends and an additional two short fillers amidship, which I attached with typical butt blocks fitted between the sheer clamp and carlin. Consequently, all of the decking could be gotten out of one sheet.<br />
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I used cardboard for my templates. I get a couple of 4x8 sheets every time I have a plywood delivery, and its useful in many ways in the shop. And recyclable.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-AcsEW5J20/T3tisnyXG9I/AAAAAAAAA1U/lxiFxfcx9X4/s1600/deckpat2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-AcsEW5J20/T3tisnyXG9I/AAAAAAAAA1U/lxiFxfcx9X4/s320/deckpat2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The cardboard template.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>For the cutout around the stems, I hot-glued thin ply scraps to the patterns (my motto is- if you don't know what to do next, plug in the hot glue gun). I then traced off the shape underneath, inside and out, cut the patterns out with a utility knife, and laid them out on my occume ply.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6mc7k5zym8/T3ti-EViF4I/AAAAAAAAA1c/Ho3X9aPaiDw/s1600/deckpat3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="269" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6mc7k5zym8/T3ti-EViF4I/AAAAAAAAA1c/Ho3X9aPaiDw/s320/deckpat3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Thin ply is hot-glued to the template to define the stem cut-outs.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u2n45D7JRbo/T3tkBzP3ixI/AAAAAAAAA1k/6b8hRQ1BdLM/s1600/deckpat4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u2n45D7JRbo/T3tkBzP3ixI/AAAAAAAAA1k/6b8hRQ1BdLM/s320/deckpat4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The patterns are laid out on the 1/4" deck plywood.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I cut the deck pieces out a little oversize, fitted them to each other and around the stems, then marked them out from underneath. Even when finish-cutting them I left my line, not wanting to worry about bevels and what not. I would plane the edges flush after gluing them on. When everything fit nicely (including the butt blocks amidship) I sanded and epoxy-coated the underside. It should not be left raw, of course, and nobody wants to hang upside down to paint the undersides after installation, least of all me. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUU7OKc5LPI/T3tkqMu8pCI/AAAAAAAAA1s/anHKiAn2F-8/s1600/deck2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUU7OKc5LPI/T3tkqMu8pCI/AAAAAAAAA1s/anHKiAn2F-8/s320/deck2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The rough cut decks are fitted together.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dSfNU-rJDYg/T3tkqQpHKMI/AAAAAAAAA10/pl8bIw-lJL8/s1600/deck3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dSfNU-rJDYg/T3tkqQpHKMI/AAAAAAAAA10/pl8bIw-lJL8/s320/deck3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Two coats of sanded epoxy are applied to the deck's undersides.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I fastened the deck pieces temporarily with small screws. Actually, I drilled for and put in most of the screws prior to marking the panels. This way, the pieces will go back on exactly as they were fit dry. I also supplemented the screws with lots of blue tape clamps, pulling the edges down in between screws.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9XuXUqqDDc/T3tm2z8Ht4I/AAAAAAAAA18/TcWBYIkgf1U/s1600/deckply1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9XuXUqqDDc/T3tm2z8Ht4I/AAAAAAAAA18/TcWBYIkgf1U/s320/deckply1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Butt-blocks are used to join the pieces of deck together amidship.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TsX-XL01qUw/T3tnSvS3WLI/AAAAAAAAA2E/iivUND_DkK0/s1600/deckply2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TsX-XL01qUw/T3tnSvS3WLI/AAAAAAAAA2E/iivUND_DkK0/s320/deckply2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Toothpick fillers.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><i> </i>I was able to do half of the deck each evening after work, and on the third evening, I removed all of the screws and plugged each hole with glue and a half a toothpick. I used Titebond 3 for this. The next morning, I cut off the toothpicks as far below the deck surface as I could, planning to fill up the void with epoxy filler. The deck seams (between each panel section) were also filled and glassed. Before filling though, I took a small grinder and cut a shallow trough down the length of each seam, to give a little hollow for the glass tape to lay into, without projecting too much above the faired deck surface. While I had some epoxy mixed, I dripped a little into each toothpick recess, to seal everything up.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oTpJpjZgHCM/T3tnrg-1pbI/AAAAAAAAA2M/kCVanSbiBlg/s1600/deckply6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oTpJpjZgHCM/T3tnrg-1pbI/AAAAAAAAA2M/kCVanSbiBlg/s320/deckply6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Deck seams were hollow ground to make room for glass tape.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fp77MkUBoaQ/T3tnsFX38PI/AAAAAAAAA2U/-x79MEM_hiw/s1600/deckply7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fp77MkUBoaQ/T3tnsFX38PI/AAAAAAAAA2U/-x79MEM_hiw/s320/deckply7_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mGFc-wqv3mM/T3toZmG7MfI/AAAAAAAAA2c/CokLUbbC9pg/s1600/deckply8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mGFc-wqv3mM/T3toZmG7MfI/AAAAAAAAA2c/CokLUbbC9pg/s320/deckply8_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The seams are taped.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br />
</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br />
</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Here are a couple of views of the decks. I'm pretty happy with the whole thing, except that I wish I had put in just a little more crown. The coamings, when they go in, will help the appearance.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-geREMz4Zxrc/T3tp0kPv19I/AAAAAAAAA2k/8t3wSy5PO0M/s1600/deckply3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-geREMz4Zxrc/T3tp0kPv19I/AAAAAAAAA2k/8t3wSy5PO0M/s320/deckply3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YoVHFFH5Wj8/T3tp1OuXLVI/AAAAAAAAA2s/B_NP3Ul0Wy0/s1600/deckply4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YoVHFFH5Wj8/T3tp1OuXLVI/AAAAAAAAA2s/B_NP3Ul0Wy0/s320/deckply4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21P3PTQQYDc/T3tp1lStc2I/AAAAAAAAA20/U_q2xwRhF5o/s1600/deckply5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21P3PTQQYDc/T3tp1lStc2I/AAAAAAAAA20/U_q2xwRhF5o/s320/deckply5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I'm now at the stage of fairing the deck surface, prior to coating with epoxy. For this, I thought I would try some of the System 3 "Quick Fair" two-part epoxy filler. The stuff is expensive, but I absolutely love it. The consistency is just right, every time, with no need to mix up a bunch of different dry fillers into liquid epoxy. Its a simple two to one mix, and I use various sized kitchen measuring scoops for the quantity needed. It feels like "spreadable butter" and doesn't tend to roll up under the knife, and doesn't have stray bits of grit and crap to mess up the coat. What makes it cost effective for a commercial yard is it's cure time. Four hours to machining! I'm hooked.<br />
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0E0z_beGn2E/T3tqEdAcl9I/AAAAAAAAA28/dwEDno7_Wg4/s1600/deckfair1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0E0z_beGn2E/T3tqEdAcl9I/AAAAAAAAA28/dwEDno7_Wg4/s320/deckfair1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpEWSeXBIWc/T3tqFGo3BbI/AAAAAAAAA3E/SgxcxsMAYYs/s1600/deckfair2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpEWSeXBIWc/T3tqFGo3BbI/AAAAAAAAA3E/SgxcxsMAYYs/s320/deckfair2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>System Three Quick-Fair filler is applied and sanded fair.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>So that's where we are now. I plan to hold off on the coaming, and install the rub rails next. Then, I'll flip the boat and do my outside finish painting! Can't wait.Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-72351689463911393312012-02-29T19:36:00.014-05:002012-02-29T21:58:59.454-05:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 13<div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I had to order the plywood for the decking, and I wanted to bundle that order with one for a job I'm doing in the shop. Two sheets of occume doesn't hurt as bad when its buried in a $2,800 walnut lumber and plywood order, and I hated to make them come to Brooklyn with just the two sheets, so while I waited for the job to gear up, I worked out the rudder details.</span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;"><br />
</span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I've drawn four different rudders for this boat over the time I've taken to build it, and I think the last one is a winner. Rudders can be simple, fixed blade affairs like I did on Cricket, but that one is well protected by a deep skeg. I wanted this one to kick up, and I wanted the control lines (up-haul and down-haul) led to the cockpit. I've built a few kick-ups, so I pretty much knew what I was about, but its a tricky bit of design work, none the less. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmPrTn3UB4/T063v3pWsOI/AAAAAAAAAzM/jjjnyHvYRbs/s1600/oldrudder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmPrTn3UB4/T063v3pWsOI/AAAAAAAAAzM/jjjnyHvYRbs/s320/oldrudder.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The old rudder design. Blade is swept back.</i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: small;"><br />
</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"></span><br />
<div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">My first kick up type was swept back to mimic the rake of the dagger board. One thing to keep in mind with a raking stern post, is that the geometry of the pivoting blade swings the blade upward somewhat, as well as side to side. A swept back rudder swinging upward has to move more water in the wrong direction to do the same work as a more plumb rudder, and it could make the boat steer harder. Also, there was something I didn't like about the look of the blade hanging off the stern. I was all ready to cut this one out when I changed my mind, and completely re-designed it! </span></div><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I've been looking at Iain Oughtred's double enders for years, and have always liked his rudder designs. It seemed that a similar plan form would work on the Matinicus, so I redrew mine to better fit the stern post, and to hang more nearly plumb. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVSex2gye5s/T064tRwL9EI/AAAAAAAAAzc/zwXqfk0sXgo/s1600/newrudder_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVSex2gye5s/T064tRwL9EI/AAAAAAAAAzc/zwXqfk0sXgo/s320/newrudder_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The re-designed rudder, with plumb blade.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: Helvetica; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I took the dimensions from the scale drawing I did in Vector Works (shown above), and lofted the rudder full size on a piece of old masonite. I then cut out the shape and hot-glued it to the boat, using small blocks to represent the gudgeon locations. I also mocked up the tiller arm and long, push-pull tiller extension, to get a feel for the steering layout.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VMZ2JdKoyo8/T065TkgBASI/AAAAAAAAAzk/AfwdAchU5w0/s1600/rudpattern1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="295" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VMZ2JdKoyo8/T065TkgBASI/AAAAAAAAAzk/AfwdAchU5w0/s320/rudpattern1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A full size pattern was made, and hot-glued to the boat.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O969jzZZVWs/T065ogOLzGI/AAAAAAAAAzs/NfsH0r40ryQ/s1600/rudpattern2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O969jzZZVWs/T065ogOLzGI/AAAAAAAAAzs/NfsH0r40ryQ/s320/rudpattern2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The "push-pull" tiller was mocked up as well.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o-Z9olbyNDE/T0656y9SHnI/AAAAAAAAAz0/8Y4aPr0-v6g/s1600/rudpattern3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o-Z9olbyNDE/T0656y9SHnI/AAAAAAAAAz0/8Y4aPr0-v6g/s320/rudpattern3_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Here are the gudgeon castings, hung on the boat with a 5/16" dowel.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">There is a lot of rudder hardware out there, but what Walt uses on his boats, and what he recommends, is a little different than most <a href="http://duck-trap.com/rudderfittings.html">http://duck-trap.com/rudderfittings.html</a>. There are two sets of gudgeons, one for the stern post, and one for the rudder. The rudder pivots on a 5/16" bronze rod that slides into the holes in the four gudgeon castings. Also, a section of the stern post is dubbed off flat to hang the gudgeons on. The rudder cassette (that's what I call the top section on a kick-up type) measures about 2-1/4" thick and consists of a core 1" thick, and a pair of cheeks, each 5/8" thick. The blade is thicknessed a little less than 1" to allow it to pivot between the cheeks. Because the rudder gudgeons are only 5/8" between the straps, they have to be let in to the core, and the cheeks have to notch over them slightly as well. I temporarily screwed the rudder gudgeons to the pattern, and the stern post gudgeons to the boat, and dropped a 5/16" dowel into the setup to mimic the rod that I did not have yet. I verified that everything fit, and pivoted correctly, which is a little fussy to do. I then made a mylar tracing of all the parts from the pattern, and plotted the control lines, and blade pivot. </span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">There's a fellow out on the west coast, James McMullen, who built a nifty Oughtred double ender. He gave me the idea for using embedded sheaves and races in the core for the control lines, and I am indebted to him for making his pictures available on the <a href="http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?110244-James-McMullen-s-Rowan-an-Oughtred-Sooty-Tern/page2&highlight=Rowan">WoodenBoat Forum</a>. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D8p3eRt-OCM/T068hv7LD5I/AAAAAAAAAz8/8QZYiyzjN6o/s1600/rowan1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D8p3eRt-OCM/T068hv7LD5I/AAAAAAAAAz8/8QZYiyzjN6o/s320/rowan1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>"Rowan", an Iain Oughtred double ender built by James McMullen. Notice the kick-up rudder.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">The rudder cassette has to be built from the inside out. The core is made in two halves, with half the sheave mortise in each half of the core. The race for the control lines is also cut into each half. I drilled a mortise for the sheaves on the drill press, then drilled through one half for the sheave's pivot rod.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IG3GTzIPjkg/T069SAE8agI/AAAAAAAAA0E/8wjZZEJLHgQ/s1600/rudcore1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IG3GTzIPjkg/T069SAE8agI/AAAAAAAAA0E/8wjZZEJLHgQ/s320/rudcore1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The two halves of the rudder core, screwed and cut out together.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gcTaIHC57YY/T069o5JbrCI/AAAAAAAAA0M/UMUDEQbR62A/s1600/rudcore2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gcTaIHC57YY/T069o5JbrCI/AAAAAAAAA0M/UMUDEQbR62A/s320/rudcore2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Mortising for the control line sheaves.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6e1wgu3hyl4/T06914_4MzI/AAAAAAAAA0U/ARL4TnSGxDI/s1600/rudcore3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6e1wgu3hyl4/T06914_4MzI/AAAAAAAAA0U/ARL4TnSGxDI/s320/rudcore3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The two halves of the core, with sheaves and races.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I assembled the core temporarily with screws, and mortised in the gudgeons. When all was right, I glued the two halves of the core together permanently.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGM-Ea47Yrg/T06-PX3xSFI/AAAAAAAAA0c/E5V1Q9MZcbc/s1600/rudcore5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wGM-Ea47Yrg/T06-PX3xSFI/AAAAAAAAA0c/E5V1Q9MZcbc/s320/rudcore5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I made a pattern to rout the mortises for the gudgeons.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldKmMa_NeNw/T06_KaxnbxI/AAAAAAAAA0k/p57dRgz7pSM/s1600/rudcore6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldKmMa_NeNw/T06_KaxnbxI/AAAAAAAAA0k/p57dRgz7pSM/s320/rudcore6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gudgeons and pivot rod assembled on the core.</i></td></tr>
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5DNx7mebk4/T06_nhZfp_I/AAAAAAAAA0s/zgbhXHbLQJA/s1600/rudcore7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5DNx7mebk4/T06_nhZfp_I/AAAAAAAAA0s/zgbhXHbLQJA/s320/rudcore7_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I tested this out on the boat before assembling the cheek pieces.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">Next, I got out the cheeks from a nice board of sapele I've been saving. I realized that this was the leftover from Cricket's stern seats, and it has a nice figure. I cut them out, mortised them for the gudgeons, and assembled one side temporarily with screws. I drilled out through the core for the sheave pivots, and for the pins that fasten the gudgeons. When that much was all drilled, I put on the other cheek, flipped the assembly over, and drilled through again from the other, previously drilled side. This is the only way to be sure that everything lines up as it should, but its a fussy operation, and equally fussy to try to describe!</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBAyyBsMD-k/T07AA1BcyvI/AAAAAAAAA00/OkNhBu_QvDs/s1600/rudcheeks1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBAyyBsMD-k/T07AA1BcyvI/AAAAAAAAA00/OkNhBu_QvDs/s320/rudcheeks1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The cheeks are glued up from a nice sapele board I had on the rack.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fx0x5RrEmNM/T07AB5UzwjI/AAAAAAAAA08/i95mV_w0zKg/s1600/rudcheeks2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fx0x5RrEmNM/T07AB5UzwjI/AAAAAAAAA08/i95mV_w0zKg/s320/rudcheeks2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Cheeks are dry assembled on the core. </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lc1gdzAUJvU/T07AC0aES5I/AAAAAAAAA1E/JmYhAbHliHQ/s1600/rudcheeks3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lc1gdzAUJvU/T07AC0aES5I/AAAAAAAAA1E/JmYhAbHliHQ/s320/rudcheeks3_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Notice the up-haul sheave mortise at the top.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3qTPTgKAm4/T07ADg2BiXI/AAAAAAAAA1M/7HhiWsdL6vs/s1600/rudcheeks4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3qTPTgKAm4/T07ADg2BiXI/AAAAAAAAA1M/7HhiWsdL6vs/s320/rudcheeks4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I epoxy coated the inside of the cheeks before assembly.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="-moz-font-feature-settings: normal; -moz-font-language-override: normal; font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 19px;">I've now got the cheeks glued together on the core. Screws were driven temporarily, to hold everything in place until the glue cures, and the assembly was well clamped as well. These screws will come out, and I'll drive in and bung the permanent bronze screws later. I was careful to clean off all the squeeze-out, particularly inside the cheeks where the blade will pivot up and down. I haven't made the blade yet. I'll do that when I make the daggerboard, as the two are quite similar. We'll come back to the rudder later, as there is still work to do. In the meantime, my decking has arrived, and though my wallet is considerably lighter, I'm moving closer to launch time. Next, we'll talk about the decking. Stay tuned...</span></div><div><br />
</div></div>Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-80261793429324280542012-02-12T16:08:00.000-05:002012-02-12T16:08:28.517-05:00Building the Matinicus Double Ender- Part 12Way back in an earlier post, I described laying out the oval deck ends. I made thin ply patterns of the oval beams to use when I later made the beams themselves.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0kFQf1XFTsk/Tzgd_nlpT4I/AAAAAAAAAxE/jWfxKh6-dfg/s1600/mde_dekbm2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0kFQf1XFTsk/Tzgd_nlpT4I/AAAAAAAAAxE/jWfxKh6-dfg/s320/mde_dekbm2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>From a previous post- Laying out the oval deck shape.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> At the same time that this was going on, I was vacuum-bagging some curved doors in the shop and had all the materials to hand and the bag set up, so I decided to laminate some scrap occume ply on a curved form to saw the beams from later. Fast forward a few months, and here we are finally getting back to those beams. Once the carlins were permanently installed, I pulled out the original oval beam patterns to check the fit. The aft pattern was still perfect, but the forward one was a tad wide, so I cut it in half and reduced the width slightly to fit the carlins.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NTG-9WXz1f4/Tzgeqjqsw0I/AAAAAAAAAxM/NfOPkcfQLAw/s1600/curvbm1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NTG-9WXz1f4/Tzgeqjqsw0I/AAAAAAAAAxM/NfOPkcfQLAw/s320/curvbm1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Checking the fit of the oval beam patterns.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> The trick with all of this, is to blend the curve of the carlins seamlessly into the oval ends. To help with this, I decided to notch the beams into the carlins slightly, avoiding a feather edge on the beam ends which would be too fragile (the squared off ends of the oval beams are evident in the photos of the patterns). I laid the patterns on my laminated, curved plywood stock, and cut out the beams.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P0vOYAnWmMg/TzgfNj70qhI/AAAAAAAAAxk/8ZrqPJYy9RI/s1600/curvbm2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P0vOYAnWmMg/TzgfNj70qhI/AAAAAAAAAxk/8ZrqPJYy9RI/s320/curvbm2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Both patterns are laid out on the laminated, curved plywood stock.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Though I don't have a photo, the rabbets in the carlin ends were cut with a router using a top-bearing pattern bit, and a scrap of ply clamped on for the pattern. When everything fit satisfactorily, I glued in the beams. Plastic is used in the hull to keep the epoxy off of the finished boat!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hHvFvkbzN7w/Tzgfw3elBaI/AAAAAAAAAxs/KgXvFjZaWWs/s1600/curvbm3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hHvFvkbzN7w/Tzgfw3elBaI/AAAAAAAAAxs/KgXvFjZaWWs/s320/curvbm3_web.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gluing the oval beams in the boat.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AZSn73jW0es/Tzgfy1eovFI/AAAAAAAAAx0/yHS4cDMd6z0/s1600/curvbm4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AZSn73jW0es/Tzgfy1eovFI/AAAAAAAAAx0/yHS4cDMd6z0/s320/curvbm4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Gluing the oval beams in the boat.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V3vKgInw9Fg/TzggTWhSg2I/AAAAAAAAAx8/ElDHkFv3kng/s1600/curvbm5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V3vKgInw9Fg/TzggTWhSg2I/AAAAAAAAAx8/ElDHkFv3kng/s320/curvbm5_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>After gluing, the beams were faired into the deck structure.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhduJadyn7Q/TzggUH5ITNI/AAAAAAAAAyE/W7UPwGkRK-M/s1600/curvbm6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AhduJadyn7Q/TzggUH5ITNI/AAAAAAAAAyE/W7UPwGkRK-M/s320/curvbm6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Notched carlins are visible in this photo, if you look closely.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>In retrospect, this whole curved beam business could have been simpler and quicker. If I do another oval deck, I'll just saw the deck camber into a couple of thick pieces of solid wood, glue them in oversize, and cut out the curve right on the boat. It will be a little harder to clean up the cut on the boat rather than on the bench, but if done in soft wood, that should not prove too difficult. At any rate, the beams are in and the curves are fair, so we'll move on to the next step.<br />
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It seemed prudent to laminate the oval coamings before decking the boat, while I still had some structure to clamp to. My usual <a href="http://certainlywood.com/woodmenu2.cfm?p=7">veneer supplier</a> stocks "special thickness" veneers in several species. I ordered some 1/16" ribbon sapele from them to make the coamings. Using these veneers is much simpler than resawing the stock myself. I will have to match the grain to the solid stock that I use for the straighter portions, though, so it is somewhat of a trade-off. Ribbon sapele is fairly easy to match, at any rate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xDK_N7ost0o/TzgdSKB4ZFI/AAAAAAAAAw0/uUFRCjXmIjA/s1600/coaming2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xDK_N7ost0o/TzgdSKB4ZFI/AAAAAAAAAw0/uUFRCjXmIjA/s320/coaming2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A stack of 1/16" sapele veneer, to laminate for the coamings.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Several years ago, I made up a pile of little "L" shaped blocks that can be screwed or clamped down along a curve to laminate to. I've used these same blocks many times, for a variety of projects, including a set of "half-bone" sprit booms for a Herreshoff 31, akas for a sailing outrigger, the outer stems for this boat, and now the oval coamings. I clamped these around the curve of the deck, and glued up a stack of veneer sandwiched between masked off strips of 3/8" <a href="http://www.packardforestproducts.com/bending_plywood.html">"wiggle-ply"</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0itezyOoYfw/TzgdQwKFw2I/AAAAAAAAAws/1y4GYi57SwM/s1600/coaming1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0itezyOoYfw/TzgdQwKFw2I/AAAAAAAAAws/1y4GYi57SwM/s320/coaming1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>"L" blocks are clamped around the perimeter of the beam.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJ55lZDlv78/Tzgi0wCfJ5I/AAAAAAAAAyM/cxtRheszO2c/s1600/coaming3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zJ55lZDlv78/Tzgi0wCfJ5I/AAAAAAAAAyM/cxtRheszO2c/s320/coaming3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The sapele veneers are sandwiched between wiggle-ply cauls.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The glue-up used pretty much all of the small clamps I could lay my hands on. My friend Matthew, builder and sailor of a gaff sloop rigged skiff named "<i>Glory Hole</i>", came by to help me with the glue-up. We did one end on Friday night, and the other end Saturday morning.<br />
<br />
<div style="color: #660000;">I'm going to stick in a little sidebar here, with a few photos of <i>Glory Hole</i>. Matthew Peverly designed and built this little flat-iron skiff on the roof of his Brooklyn loft a few years ago. He designed the hull, not with splines, curves, pencil, and paper, but by building scale models with posterboard and crazy glue. When he had a hull he liked, Matt scaled up the model and cut out full size hull panels and bottom. I don't know how he got it off the roof, I wasn't there. He rigged it originally as a gaff cat, and later added a bow sprit and jib. I've sailed this boat a number of times myself, and also sailed in company alongside in my own "Cricket". Its a great boat! Here's some photos that fellow sailor Chris Bickford shot...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UsaTQ3kjTDM/TzgnUScr9pI/AAAAAAAAAys/IxoWHs3-Myo/s1600/glorhole1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UsaTQ3kjTDM/TzgnUScr9pI/AAAAAAAAAys/IxoWHs3-Myo/s320/glorhole1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-liOPa0jB6K0/TzgnVCLA76I/AAAAAAAAAy0/7sO31E7mITY/s1600/glorhole2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-liOPa0jB6K0/TzgnVCLA76I/AAAAAAAAAy0/7sO31E7mITY/s320/glorhole2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tY2LyYaLibI/TzgnWA0GklI/AAAAAAAAAy8/OaSbOHndfi0/s1600/glorhole3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tY2LyYaLibI/TzgnWA0GklI/AAAAAAAAAy8/OaSbOHndfi0/s320/glorhole3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-giOGmmb4WuY/TzgnYH2AJ5I/AAAAAAAAAzE/3ArL95DkYkA/s1600/glorhole4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-giOGmmb4WuY/TzgnYH2AJ5I/AAAAAAAAAzE/3ArL95DkYkA/s320/glorhole4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Back to the coamings...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WZt2ZuPnIeg/TzgkD9kWYcI/AAAAAAAAAyU/VoE5F3QFirs/s1600/coaming4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WZt2ZuPnIeg/TzgkD9kWYcI/AAAAAAAAAyU/VoE5F3QFirs/s320/coaming4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>It takes a lot of clamps!</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cBLoMz5LzZE/TzgkR75ZwEI/AAAAAAAAAyc/MSSDZuyZfg0/s1600/coaming6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="259" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cBLoMz5LzZE/TzgkR75ZwEI/AAAAAAAAAyc/MSSDZuyZfg0/s320/coaming6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The raw coaming blank. Aft coaming is being glued up.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxWqc7cNDTs/TzgknrFssdI/AAAAAAAAAyk/v2pur_deKKI/s1600/coaming5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxWqc7cNDTs/TzgknrFssdI/AAAAAAAAAyk/v2pur_deKKI/s320/coaming5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>We'll set these aside now, until we finish the deck.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I have to get in some material to deck the boat, so in the meantime I'm working on the rudder. That's what we'll look at next time. Stay tuned...Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-11219803874756191632012-01-30T20:45:00.000-05:002012-01-30T20:45:13.744-05:00Building the Matinicus Double Ender- Part 11I've been quite busy working on <i>Mouse</i>, even though I haven't written to the blog recently. Several things have been happening simultaneously, though they are presented here in a linear fashion, so some photos may appear out of synch. The last piece of major structure to go in the interior is the main mast partner, and this has to be installed before the remaining deck framing can go in. I made the partner itself from 3 laminations of 9mm occume. The multi-directional grain makes a very tough partner, resisting any tendency to split or warp, and its 1-1/8" thickness is plenty stiff.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DwaKhbq8Q28/Tyc9NXYgRyI/AAAAAAAAArM/S0XykBRVTfo/s1600/mdepartnr1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DwaKhbq8Q28/Tyc9NXYgRyI/AAAAAAAAArM/S0XykBRVTfo/s320/mdepartnr1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Checking the mast rake with a dummy stick.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I decided to step the mast through a gate, rather than down through a hole, to facilitate easier stepping afloat (we hope). The mast will be square in section at the base, and will pivot up into a three sided enclosure. A pair of bronze straps are bolted to the partner, through which a stout pin will slide, capturing the mast. The partner opening will be lined with leather. <br />
<br />
I cut out the mast opening, being careful to get the rake angle correct. I used a lofted measurement from frame #1 to lay out the position of the opening on the partner. I rounded over the top and bottom edges of the opening, to make it easier to pull the leather around. I'd been saving a piece of 1/16" bronze plate for just such an application, and dug this out to make the straps. I laid these out on the plate, and cut them with a hacksaw, then radiused the ends.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R6J1X2PgE3c/Tyc95_hmxuI/AAAAAAAAArU/4itAO7U5NFg/s1600/mdepartnr3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R6J1X2PgE3c/Tyc95_hmxuI/AAAAAAAAArU/4itAO7U5NFg/s320/mdepartnr3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The straps are cut out of 1/16" bronze sheet...</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf-bXTecilU/Tyc-CVonDCI/AAAAAAAAArc/m9RQuTZRaos/s1600/mdepartnr4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf-bXTecilU/Tyc-CVonDCI/AAAAAAAAArc/m9RQuTZRaos/s320/mdepartnr4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>...the ends are radiused and the edges filed smooth.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I thought the bronze might be too flimsy for the job, but it proved to be very stiff, and quite tough to bend. I made a little wood jig to bend the plate around, but couldn't make the bend with any tool I had.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tqPtMFHE7hg/Tyc-vF669bI/AAAAAAAAArk/beACS2uDAa4/s1600/mdepartnr5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tqPtMFHE7hg/Tyc-vF669bI/AAAAAAAAArk/beACS2uDAa4/s320/mdepartnr5_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This jig for bending the plate was unsuccessful.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I was pondering this problem, and mentioned it to my lighting designer neighbor. He said, "oh, I've got a Diacro bender in the shop, come on down and we'll make it happen". That's one advantage of being in NYC, rather than out in the woods! I had to walk maybe 200 yards to his shop, where we made the bends in about 15 minutes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yKYBEN52rRw/Tyc_Gvgm3yI/AAAAAAAAArs/9j93JrKSTtY/s1600/mdepartnr6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yKYBEN52rRw/Tyc_Gvgm3yI/AAAAAAAAArs/9j93JrKSTtY/s320/mdepartnr6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The plate is put in the bender, with the correct die...</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aG5RNLXZl10/Tyc_bQ_02eI/AAAAAAAAAr0/L9Z-a0OfRNo/s1600/mdepartnr7a_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aG5RNLXZl10/Tyc_bQ_02eI/AAAAAAAAAr0/L9Z-a0OfRNo/s320/mdepartnr7a_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>...and the bender's arm swings around to bend the plate, effortlessly.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><i> </i>The mast partner was saturated with 2 coats of epoxy, and painted (along with the knees that hold it in the boat), before leathering the opening and bolting on the straps.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFpGiWZ-MZg/TydAtpgo49I/AAAAAAAAAsE/ibVdSjC5qcY/s1600/mdepartnr8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TFpGiWZ-MZg/TydAtpgo49I/AAAAAAAAAsE/ibVdSjC5qcY/s320/mdepartnr8_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This is what the straps will look like.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XyfFURs2ZGs/TydAVFn9HoI/AAAAAAAAAr8/psWuew6x_HI/s1600/mdepartnr2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XyfFURs2ZGs/TydAVFn9HoI/AAAAAAAAAr8/psWuew6x_HI/s320/mdepartnr2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Epoxy saturated plywood.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The leather is another little story. Just across the hall from my shop, a leather artisan recently moved in, and she gave me a nice little scrap of hide for the job. Her outfit is called <a href="http://www.kikany.com/">Kika NY</a>. Check it out. I used up the last of my stash of brass canoe tacks (that I got from Rollin Thurlow, when I took his canoe restoration class at Wooden Boat about 20 years ago) putting on the leather chafe guards. I used the tacks, plus some contact cement to hold the leather in place, wrapping it from the top around to the bottom of the partner.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pQaDCalrh1o/TydBXzuFVzI/AAAAAAAAAsM/Knbx8XThQl8/s1600/mdepartnr9_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pQaDCalrh1o/TydBXzuFVzI/AAAAAAAAAsM/Knbx8XThQl8/s320/mdepartnr9_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leathering the partner.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I next made a stout oak pin to slide in the straps. The pin is radiused on one edge, and flat on the other where it bears against the partner.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZONrLlyAv0U/TydBq1-LssI/AAAAAAAAAsU/K0gpZhKyNK8/s1600/mdepartnr10_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZONrLlyAv0U/TydBq1-LssI/AAAAAAAAAsU/K0gpZhKyNK8/s320/mdepartnr10_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Making the oak pin.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I drilled out the top of the bronze straps and the partner on the drill press, but clamped the straps on with the pin in place to drill all the way through. I wanted the fit to be perfect. The pin should slide easily, which it does. The mast will be snugged up in its cutout with a wedge driven down between it and the oak pin. With the partner assembly complete, I installed it in the boat, along with the knees. I used Sikaflex where the parts all bear against the hull, and between the knees and the partner.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E33BMMk3LQA/TydB9sOhtyI/AAAAAAAAAsc/7Epmup9qaD4/s1600/mdepartnr11_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E33BMMk3LQA/TydB9sOhtyI/AAAAAAAAAsc/7Epmup9qaD4/s320/mdepartnr11_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhiKMjePQgU/TydCEZ9DwPI/AAAAAAAAAsk/uNpT7_bD2q8/s1600/mdepartnr12_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhiKMjePQgU/TydCEZ9DwPI/AAAAAAAAAsk/uNpT7_bD2q8/s320/mdepartnr12_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The completed mast partner.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>While all of this partnering was going on, I was also working on the deck carlins and the fore and aft beams in the center of the end decks. Though the term is not quite accurate, I'll call these longitudinal beams "king planks". The mizzen mast will step through the aft king plank, so a hole must be drilled at the correct angle to account for the mast rake. This is a little tricky, as you will see. I like to use plywood here like I did the main mast partner, for its resistance to splitting. Both fore and aft king planks will support deck cleats also, so they should be strong. There is a shallow curve down the length of both king planks, like the curve in the sheer, so I laminated two thicknesses of plywood right on the boat, fitting them in notches cut in the deck beams, and trimmed to fit the stems and inwales in the ends of the boat. This is also a good way to use up scrap ply left over from the planking.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Trx_ESaSHUg/TydCiYFrpeI/AAAAAAAAAss/LR9sWiRk4Z8/s1600/mdekingplnk1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Trx_ESaSHUg/TydCiYFrpeI/AAAAAAAAAss/LR9sWiRk4Z8/s320/mdekingplnk1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The deck beams are notched for the king planks.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUEe59jRKRs/TydC_t5802I/AAAAAAAAAs8/QjrZb_k6Kzg/s1600/mdekingplnk2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jUEe59jRKRs/TydC_t5802I/AAAAAAAAAs8/QjrZb_k6Kzg/s320/mdekingplnk2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The king plank blanks are laminated right on the boat.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><i> </i> I took the mast angle right off of the lofting with a bevel gauge, and used it to set up the drill press.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bHTfr8-_HjI/TydC45-j8RI/AAAAAAAAAs0/tupU4rvJD74/s1600/mdekingplnk3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bHTfr8-_HjI/TydC45-j8RI/AAAAAAAAAs0/tupU4rvJD74/s320/mdekingplnk3_web.jpg" width="237" /></a></div><br />
There are a couple of different ways to go wrong here, and I did them both. For one thing, I measured the angle relative to the water-plane, rather than normal to the sheer, for some reason. So the angle of the drill press was not right. The other thing I did was orienting the plank the wrong way on the drill press, so the angle would have been backwards.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dkA1MAvWAok/TydDYRTKONI/AAAAAAAAAtE/zc5vj2NOouU/s1600/mdekingplnk4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dkA1MAvWAok/TydDYRTKONI/AAAAAAAAAtE/zc5vj2NOouU/s320/mdekingplnk4_web.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A 2-1/2" hole saw is set up to drill the mizzen hole.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I had just started drilling, when something clunked into place in my mind, and I stopped. I went back and re-measured the angle, changed the drill press, and flipped the plank end for end. I had only drilled into it a little way, so I was able to correct the error without having to make it over again!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5EZujZ5np-g/TydDtS3D7mI/AAAAAAAAAtM/1Wp_qef9yyI/s1600/mdekingplnk5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5EZujZ5np-g/TydDtS3D7mI/AAAAAAAAAtM/1Wp_qef9yyI/s320/mdekingplnk5_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The correct angle and orientation!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> Before gluing the king planks in, I masked off the areas not to receive glue, and put a plastic drop down in the hull to protect the paint from drips.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vixIWd0nA5E/TydEAWDy9dI/AAAAAAAAAtU/tz4cfgvD7Og/s1600/mdekingplnk7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vixIWd0nA5E/TydEAWDy9dI/AAAAAAAAAtU/tz4cfgvD7Og/s320/mdekingplnk7_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrFLTNVBBDw/TydEJTrl9SI/AAAAAAAAAtc/R0ZCKnUO2Y0/s1600/mdekingplnk6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xrFLTNVBBDw/TydEJTrl9SI/AAAAAAAAAtc/R0ZCKnUO2Y0/s320/mdekingplnk6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The king planks are epoxy saturated like the mast partner before installation.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>At the same time, I worked on fitting the carlins. These fore and aft members define and support the deck around the inside, along with the coamings (to be fit later).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4mLc4qU2fhE/TydEhVDWjJI/AAAAAAAAAtk/jQLbQ0JsGrI/s1600/mdecarlin1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4mLc4qU2fhE/TydEhVDWjJI/AAAAAAAAAtk/jQLbQ0JsGrI/s320/mdecarlin1_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The carlins are clamped in place.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I use scrap stock to get the compound angle at the cut ends right, before cutting the actual pieces. These have to fit just right at both ends, and to that end I have developed my own method of fitting. I get one end perfect, then mark a reference line on the boat and carlin about midway down. I then fit my scrap piece at the other end, and transfer the reference mark from the boat to the scrap. I then measure from the long point of the cut end on the scrap back to the reference mark, and transfer that number to the actual carlin (works for inwales too). I make the cut a hair long, maybe 1/32" and bend in the carlin. It doesn't quite fit at one end, but I run a saw cut between the faying surfaces, twice if necessary, and it drops right in place. No more shims!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V0yliPmrUsI/TydEwSvnCjI/AAAAAAAAAts/YqxK6jrY334/s1600/mdecarlin2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V0yliPmrUsI/TydEwSvnCjI/AAAAAAAAAts/YqxK6jrY334/s320/mdecarlin2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Running a saw blade between the joint for a perfect fit.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>At this point, I've epoxy coated the inside faces of the carlins, and I'm ready to fasten them in. The oval deck beams at each end of the boat are next, and I'll cover that next time. Hang in there, we're getting closer and closer!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-17680729939980565782012-01-01T00:14:00.000-05:002012-01-01T00:14:58.547-05:00Building the Matinicus Double Ender- Part 10Well I've been working pretty hard to finish fitting the seats and side benches. My idea to laminate some curve into the bench stock worked out very well. I could have shimmed the benches up a little as Doryman suggested, but the curved stock fits the riser curvature for their full length, and the benches fair into the thwarts nicely, so I'm glad I put the time into it. I made a thin ply pattern for the benches, scribing to fit the hull and notching around the frames. There is quite a bevel on the edges of the side benches where they meet the hull, but the bevel doesn't change much, thankfully.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TG3wlV15dNw/Tv_qD2ZVGkI/AAAAAAAAAqs/4vPyFBEzH2M/s1600/bench2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TG3wlV15dNw/Tv_qD2ZVGkI/AAAAAAAAAqs/4vPyFBEzH2M/s320/bench2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Thin, plywood patterns were made for the side benches.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I fit the pieces carefully to the hull and around the frames, but left the inboard edges wild. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C3x4cCgx89E/Tv_gwiR3otI/AAAAAAAAAoE/LUjssJbE7Fc/s1600/bench4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C3x4cCgx89E/Tv_gwiR3otI/AAAAAAAAAoE/LUjssJbE7Fc/s320/bench4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> I next sprung a batten around the whole length of the bench, sawed out the curve… <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OrQhD0BFpc4/Tv_g1OOMcPI/AAAAAAAAAoM/TkVnJv4oj3Q/s1600/bench5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OrQhD0BFpc4/Tv_g1OOMcPI/AAAAAAAAAoM/TkVnJv4oj3Q/s320/bench5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
…and cleaned up the cut with a compass plane.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvBi5F1porw/Tv_iAp8Nc1I/AAAAAAAAAok/VT3JXPSy3VU/s1600/bench6_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FvBi5F1porw/Tv_iAp8Nc1I/AAAAAAAAAok/VT3JXPSy3VU/s320/bench6_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
After going to all the trouble to fit the benches tight to the hull, it was suggested by some of the folks on the WoodenBoat forum that I should leave a space, or cut scuppers at the hull to drain any loose water that would collect there in a puddle (think wet butt). I decided that was a smart move, and scribed a fat quarter of an inch off the outboard edges of the benches, but left the notches at the frames snug. I also made the fit a little loose where the benches butt the thwarts. I was afraid of future swelling across the grain of the thwarts, pushing against the frame-heads and possibly doing some damage. I cut a bevel on the undersides of all the parts to reduce their apparent thickness, and finished off the edges top and bottom with a hand-cut round over. I prefer cutting this by hand, rather than with a router. Its faster, quieter, and produces an elegant transition from square to radiused edge. The last piece to get out was the dagger trunk cap, which notches around the dagger opening, and butts into the forward thwart.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-asWW-_sZzSA/Tv_jZgxkt8I/AAAAAAAAAow/ayu4-pZnzBw/s1600/bench9_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-asWW-_sZzSA/Tv_jZgxkt8I/AAAAAAAAAow/ayu4-pZnzBw/s320/bench9_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The benches were cut back a little, to drain water.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qz0FPApWqlU/Tv_j7EF4jbI/AAAAAAAAAo8/zBQrfy259-s/s1600/seatvarn1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qz0FPApWqlU/Tv_j7EF4jbI/AAAAAAAAAo8/zBQrfy259-s/s320/seatvarn1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The front edge is beveled on the underside to reduce the apparent thickness. The screws provide little stands to facilitate finishing both sides of the piece at once.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>All of the furniture was finish sanded, and the screw holes were bunged and trimmed. It doesn't seem that complicated, but there were 23 separate pieces of wood to cut, fit, shape, plug, sand, or otherwise caress and cajole into the boat. All for a place to sit! And after all of that, those pieces still have to be varnished, several coats.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIWuzZUufvw/Tv_lA9f2EnI/AAAAAAAAApI/xbzB6oxNVeY/s1600/seatvarn2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hIWuzZUufvw/Tv_lA9f2EnI/AAAAAAAAApI/xbzB6oxNVeY/s320/seatvarn2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>This little sander is ideal for working in tight places.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i_B8D0xDaIM/Tv_lBneBhOI/AAAAAAAAApQ/XbFdjZrWSCw/s1600/seatvarn3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i_B8D0xDaIM/Tv_lBneBhOI/AAAAAAAAApQ/XbFdjZrWSCw/s320/seatvarn3_web.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The middle thwart alone has 8 separate pieces!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I put a sealer coat of amber shellac on everything, to give it a little color.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HzGy5x0Br1Q/Tv_mFIGNikI/AAAAAAAAApc/dpuRYKqS-8E/s1600/seatvarn5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HzGy5x0Br1Q/Tv_mFIGNikI/AAAAAAAAApc/dpuRYKqS-8E/s320/seatvarn5_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The furniture, with sealer.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The Spanish Cedar I used is quite pretty, though not as dark or as red as mahogany or sapele would be. But it is quite light in weight, which is good because there is a lot of it. It's pretty soft, though, and if it gets dinged up too badly, or I get tired of varnishing every year (more likely), I can always paint it! But for now its varnish time. I like Z-Spar 1015 Captain's Varnish, and have used it for years. I thin the first coat some, and thin the subsequent coats less, but always use a little brushing liquid. It slows down the drying, and enhances the "wet edge". I put on three coats after the sealer, top and bottom, then got ready to install the whole lot. I'll put on another two coats before I'm done, for a net five. Some people say you need a minimum of seven, but I've never managed it!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z1JuDBiSAcE/Tv_mtHCwRdI/AAAAAAAAApo/EpK46tGC-t0/s1600/seatvarn7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z1JuDBiSAcE/Tv_mtHCwRdI/AAAAAAAAApo/EpK46tGC-t0/s320/seatvarn7_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nice "plum pudding" figure in this Spanish Cedar.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U6RFf8dUoKw/Tv_mt89_e4I/AAAAAAAAApw/f_CO9J3wphk/s1600/seatvarn8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U6RFf8dUoKw/Tv_mt89_e4I/AAAAAAAAApw/f_CO9J3wphk/s320/seatvarn8_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The thwart knees are cherry.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I decided to bed the knees and thwart ends in a slow-cure Sikaflex bedding compound. Its fussy to do, but I carefully taped off all the appropriate surfaces against the mess to come, and was glad I did. Even so, the cleanup was a bitch. The goop is sticky, and the shapes are intricate. But I managed to do it all fairly neatly. I'll have a little touch-up painting to do around all the furniture.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrv8O1Us9PI/Tv_ndSwUM4I/AAAAAAAAAp8/hU0ga1F5Svs/s1600/seatinstall1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrv8O1Us9PI/Tv_ndSwUM4I/AAAAAAAAAp8/hU0ga1F5Svs/s320/seatinstall1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sikaflex bedding compound is applied to the parts.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Duijp22JYjc/Tv_neHOdUNI/AAAAAAAAAqE/wE2hTI1n4qw/s1600/seatinstall2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Duijp22JYjc/Tv_neHOdUNI/AAAAAAAAAqE/wE2hTI1n4qw/s320/seatinstall2_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The parts and the hull were taped off prior to installation. The squeeze-out is evident here.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cflaQSeDblY/Tv_oM4whoII/AAAAAAAAAqQ/OJofKGF3Cu8/s1600/seatinstall3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cflaQSeDblY/Tv_oM4whoII/AAAAAAAAAqQ/OJofKGF3Cu8/s320/seatinstall3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The finished installation.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lb5o0G5zl4Y/Tv_oNlgf1QI/AAAAAAAAAqY/9MmsGKrD_Xg/s1600/seatinstall4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lb5o0G5zl4Y/Tv_oNlgf1QI/AAAAAAAAAqY/9MmsGKrD_Xg/s320/seatinstall4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Another view.</i></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--4Uam1P4qkU/Tv_oOchEDfI/AAAAAAAAAqg/I7ckokjXqFY/s1600/seatinstall5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--4Uam1P4qkU/Tv_oOchEDfI/AAAAAAAAAqg/I7ckokjXqFY/s320/seatinstall5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The before mentioned dagger trunk cap.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The fruition of all this work is a beautiful, golden-hued interior, which should look like it just dropped into place, with no evidence of all the labor that went into it. I hope I have succeeded in that regard. But now, thankfully, its time to move on!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-60492369158277791092011-11-24T22:51:00.000-05:002011-11-24T22:51:43.581-05:00Building the Matinicus Double Ender- Part 9<div class="separator" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></div>To view Part 1 click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">here</a>. <br />
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Thanksgiving is traditionally the time that I am able to re-connect with my boat building projects. The sailing season is pretty much done, though I have not put Cricket, my crab skiff, away for the winter quite yet. I look forward to turkey day and the beginning of the holiday season, for the renewed energy and enthusiasm I always feel at the prospect of some real boat carpentry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a90ObnHpwuU/Ts8QfAa8cgI/AAAAAAAAAng/QrAwdKh0NGo/s1600/crickmarsh2-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a90ObnHpwuU/Ts8QfAa8cgI/AAAAAAAAAng/QrAwdKh0NGo/s320/crickmarsh2-web.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">Cricket in the marsh, tying in a reef. Photo by Chris Bickford.</i></td></tr>
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Mouse (as I've named the peapod) has been gathering dust for six busy months of fancy interior cabinetry, including two Manhattan kitchens since July, among other projects. I vacuumed her out and started back in where I left off. The interior had been painted, floorboards were installed, and deck beams were fitted. I screwed in the seat risers, and got out the spanish cedar planks that will make up the thwarts and side benches.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w1b9RtbYJqs/Ts8Gopzfm9I/AAAAAAAAAl4/hn1qQjMpW2g/s1600/seat1_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w1b9RtbYJqs/Ts8Gopzfm9I/AAAAAAAAAl4/hn1qQjMpW2g/s320/seat1_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="color: #660000; text-align: center;"><i>A stack of spanish cedar will become thwarts and side benches.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table>I made patterns for the thwarts from particle board and scrap 3mm poplar ply. I somehow neglected to photograph this step, but the ply is fitted to the side curvature, and bevels were taken at the fore and aft edges of each thwart. I transferred the patterns to the thwart stock and sawed them out square first, then marked the bevels and sawed to the least angle on the bandsaw, then fine-tuned the bevels with a block plane on the bench.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zbuK9kX6LBU/Ts8HLXIiuBI/AAAAAAAAAmA/Sg3Wvec2s68/s1600/seat2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zbuK9kX6LBU/Ts8HLXIiuBI/AAAAAAAAAmA/Sg3Wvec2s68/s320/seat2_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">Bandsawing the bevel on a thwart.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>After the thwarts were fitted, I installed hardwood blocks (cherry, in this case) underneath to carry the ends of the side benches. I also added an athwartship stiffener, glued and screwed to the center thwart, because the span at that location is too great to go unsupported. The stiffener is not really visible, unless you look under the seat, and that suits me fine. You'll see a lot of steel screws in these photos. These will all be replaced with bronze, and bunged, before varnishing and installing the furniture permanently. The thwarts will be held in with knees, NOT screwed to the risers. They bear against a frame on one edge, and are captured at the other by the side benches. So, the knees hold them down, and the frames and side benches locate them fore and aft. This is traditional construction. I make patterns for each seat knee from scrap mdf or ply, and fit the notches carefully before laying out and cutting the curve that makes these knees attractive. The knees themselves are cut from straight-grained cherry, with the grain running diagonally from seat to rail.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DHaVSdG0OgE/Ts8IBK179kI/AAAAAAAAAmI/9cC9Jd30Qk0/s1600/seat3_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DHaVSdG0OgE/Ts8IBK179kI/AAAAAAAAAmI/9cC9Jd30Qk0/s320/seat3_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-egsOe-Dmh8w/Ts8IB72li7I/AAAAAAAAAmQ/gKQnc_aJJ_w/s1600/seat4_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-egsOe-Dmh8w/Ts8IB72li7I/AAAAAAAAAmQ/gKQnc_aJJ_w/s320/seat4_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="color: #660000; text-align: center;"><i>Patterns are made for the thwart knees.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t6tByeGzs3k/Ts8Iba07PSI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yh3Jb5ns6Z8/s1600/seat6-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t6tByeGzs3k/Ts8Iba07PSI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yh3Jb5ns6Z8/s320/seat6-web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">And the knee is sawn from cherry.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAc8kyapyD8/Ts8Ia0bT_SI/AAAAAAAAAmY/Bncm_gmKNHA/s1600/seat5_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAc8kyapyD8/Ts8Ia0bT_SI/AAAAAAAAAmY/Bncm_gmKNHA/s320/seat5_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">A boat-full of thwarts and knees. The aft knees have not been sawn to shape yet.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_LCW0IKBz8/Ts8JVxrEqcI/AAAAAAAAAmw/4GoAiQwkSE0/s1600/seat8_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_LCW0IKBz8/Ts8JVxrEqcI/AAAAAAAAAmw/4GoAiQwkSE0/s320/seat8_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">A finished knee. The small gaps will close up when the knee is fastened in.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>When I planed the thwart stock to final thickness, I left the side bench stock a little thicker. I was worried about having to bend in a stiff plank to the riser's curvature. In retrospect, I probably should have spiled the risers from a wider piece, making them follow a straight line from the aft edge of the center thwart to their aft end. Walt Simmons says this should be a straight line, but I couldn't make my riser stock do anything but follow a curve similar to the sheer curve. It was all I could do to get the risers at the correct height (for rowing) at each location. So consequently, there is a bit of a dip along the span of the benches, in profile. The outside curve in plan view, of course, is just sawn to shape to fit the plank's curvature. So I decided to resaw the bench stock and glue it back together with a little curve in it. I don't know if anyone else does it this way, but it makes sense to me. It took me about thirty minutes to resaw the stock, and run it back through the planer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yKDQOUtsSxM/Ts8KVkuvH7I/AAAAAAAAAm4/xQ5t0mYqD1k/s1600/seat9_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yKDQOUtsSxM/Ts8KVkuvH7I/AAAAAAAAAm4/xQ5t0mYqD1k/s320/seat9_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #660000;">Resawing a 12" plank. Piece of cake for this Minimax bandsaw.</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BHUtkVtdzo/Ts8KWeLLXMI/AAAAAAAAAnA/qezYDJi0iy8/s1600/seat10_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BHUtkVtdzo/Ts8KWeLLXMI/AAAAAAAAAnA/qezYDJi0iy8/s320/seat10_web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="color: #660000; text-align: center;"><i>An extra high particle board fence is slid over the fence casting to facilitate wide resawing projects.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4x6J0Qr2Y9A/Ts8LvXJqb9I/AAAAAAAAAnQ/CjKBlcj-jZo/s1600/seat11_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4x6J0Qr2Y9A/Ts8LvXJqb9I/AAAAAAAAAnQ/CjKBlcj-jZo/s320/seat11_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">Dressing the resawn plank to thickness.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I then set up a simple form with three sticks, the middle of which was higher by the amount of curve I wanted, and glued up a bent plank for each side bench. That's where we are now, on Thanksgivng Day. I will be fitting the side benches next, and finish up the top of the daggerboard case.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaWX9y3I86s/Ts8LZXS6_wI/AAAAAAAAAnI/gxfSfk2BOCA/s1600/seat12_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaWX9y3I86s/Ts8LZXS6_wI/AAAAAAAAAnI/gxfSfk2BOCA/s320/seat12_web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">Gluing in a slight curve to the side benches.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AScau58jaoA/Ts8M9CFKqvI/AAAAAAAAAnY/TLrgzx0WM3g/s1600/seat7_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AScau58jaoA/Ts8M9CFKqvI/AAAAAAAAAnY/TLrgzx0WM3g/s320/seat7_web.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="color: #660000;">Ready for side benches.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Stay Tuned!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-47498891103586083952011-04-03T17:43:00.000-04:002011-04-03T17:43:49.838-04:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 8 To view Part 1 click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html" style="color: blue;">here</a>.<br />
<br />
It finally feels like I'm getting somewhere, once the paint starts going on. It provides a temporary welcome relief from the construction, which we'll have to get back to in short order. When we were up at last year's <a href="http://www.woodenboat.com/smallreach/" style="color: blue;">Small Reach Regatta</a> we had a look at Mark Ober's striking <a href="http://www.pulsiferhampton.com/" style="color: blue;">Pulsfer<span style="background-color: white;"></span> Hampton</a>. His cockpit sole was painted a beautiful sand color, and I asked him if it was from <a href="http://www.pettitpaint.com/" style="color: blue;">Petit</a> paint, and he said he thought it was. I looked at the Petit <i>Easypoxy</i> color chart, and spotted it immediately. Sandtone. I was able to pick all of my colors from the Petit catalog, happily, and ordered the lot from Jamestown Distributors. Easypoxy is a single part polyurethane, similar to Interlux Brightsides, which I've used a lot. Some people advocate painting directly over cured and sanded epoxy with polyurethane paints, but I have always used an appropriate primer which fills small blemishes, and sands beautifully. That is what I did here.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpoiX3t_Vbg/TZjbxejSRsI/AAAAAAAAAh4/pcPvzD9mlew/s1600/mde_prime2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpoiX3t_Vbg/TZjbxejSRsI/AAAAAAAAAh4/pcPvzD9mlew/s320/mde_prime2web.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sanded primer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0DfhbRScUU0/TZjb3zoYU1I/AAAAAAAAAh8/hU6k3BZX5Us/s1600/mde_primeweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0DfhbRScUU0/TZjb3zoYU1I/AAAAAAAAAh8/hU6k3BZX5Us/s320/mde_primeweb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Areas to be later bonded to with epoxy are taped off before painting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I enjoy painting, but it is a lot of work, and somewhat of a marathon. I started on the primer coat one evening about 6:00, and didn't leave the shop until 2:00 am! I was happy the next day that it sanded easily. I then put on three topcoats of Sandtone, sanding in between. The first coat I left gloss, but added a little flattener to the last two coats. Its helps to soften the effect a little, but is not quite as durable as the super high gloss.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9gO-CbYNXCg/TZjgJ3Hb7jI/AAAAAAAAAiA/QtkP0XD9K6w/s1600/mde_paintweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9gO-CbYNXCg/TZjgJ3Hb7jI/AAAAAAAAAiA/QtkP0XD9K6w/s320/mde_paintweb.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished interior color.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I did say that I enjoy painting a boat, but the enjoyment is tempered somewhat after going around the boat four times with paint and sandpaper. I can't imagine how someone could get on six or seven coats, though it does get easier as you build up the surface. I keep my boats well covered and protected from the sun, and after four years my crab skiff Cricket still looks great.<br />
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I've been hanging on to some salvaged redwood boards for quite a while, thinking I could use them in a boat somewhere, and decided the MDE floor boards would be the perfect use for them. I had a few pieces of dressed 5/4 stock, with a few nail holes from some previous, unknown application (I can't even remember where I got them), and I found an old picnic table top in the dumpster down by my loading dock. I also salvaged a dozen old growth fir 2x4's, vertical grain and virtually clear, from the same dumpster. I've set those aside for a later project, like frames for a dory maybe. I pulled out the floorboard patterns that I had previously made, and laid out the lengths on my redwood stock. I resawed the boards on the bandsaw, then dressed them down to about 7/16". I was concerned that they would be strong enough, but the spans are not over 15", so I think they will be adequate.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iaf4DkKRshk/TZjjs5KVL-I/AAAAAAAAAiE/lZgucVMWBYk/s1600/mde_floorwewb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iaf4DkKRshk/TZjjs5KVL-I/AAAAAAAAAiE/lZgucVMWBYk/s320/mde_floorwewb.jpg" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The redwood stock is laid out with the floorboard patterns...</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AutUiG5OHRs/TZjkB630VPI/AAAAAAAAAiI/KZRkuvlwnKQ/s1600/mde_floor2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AutUiG5OHRs/TZjkB630VPI/AAAAAAAAAiI/KZRkuvlwnKQ/s320/mde_floor2web.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and split open on the bandsaw.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I whittled out about 50 little plugs from the redwood rips, and drove them into any old nail holes that remained after cutting the floorboards out. I love the feel of oiled floorboards under my bare feet. Cricket has a cedar sole that is comfortable, and that I renew with oil every season. I used the old pinetar-linseed oil-turps concoction on Cricket, but I didn't have any on hand in the shop. I did have a bottle of so-called "teak oil", which I put on the redwood, and it is beautiful. The old wood has a lot of character, and looks great in the boat.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnN_I5VPNkM/TZjlgfpwgJI/AAAAAAAAAiM/01UQbaJWkbw/s1600/mde_floor3web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnN_I5VPNkM/TZjlgfpwgJI/AAAAAAAAAiM/01UQbaJWkbw/s320/mde_floor3web.jpg" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oiled redwood looks pretty against the painted hull.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eNNsRejgqao/TZjmX-MCmlI/AAAAAAAAAiU/lWJNz6_C76w/s1600/mde_floor4web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eNNsRejgqao/TZjmX-MCmlI/AAAAAAAAAiU/lWJNz6_C76w/s320/mde_floor4web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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I screwed the floorboards down with bronze screws, which will age nicely. Its a good thing the redwood was free, because a box of bronze screws is about $25! So now its on to the rest of the interior, which I've already worked out (see previous post). I'm going to use Spanish cedar for the seats, because of its weight savings. The knees which hold the seats down will be cherry. But more on that later...Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-45192954416387527252011-02-20T10:37:00.001-05:002011-02-20T12:07:52.498-05:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 7To view Part 1, click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html">here</a>.<br />
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With the boat framed up and the sail plan finalized, it is time to nail down the interior layout. There are two givens; the forward and the aft rowing thwart positions, which I laid out to plan. Starting with these two thwarts, I drew up the deck plan and furniture arrangement.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5DYbOtUI1-Q/TWEr_bujwSI/AAAAAAAAAgU/VocrxFoXLVM/s1600/mdedeckplanweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="96" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5DYbOtUI1-Q/TWEr_bujwSI/AAAAAAAAAgU/VocrxFoXLVM/s320/mdedeckplanweb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Deck plan and interior arrangement.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I've always known I would deck the boat. Washboards (side decks) and coamings do a wonderful job of keeping the water out, and will allow us to sail the boat a little harder than we might with open gunwales. On the other hand, a large deck area can choke up the interior, particularly if side benches are to be fitted, as I am doing here. I had initially intended to step the main mast through the deck, but after thinking about this, I decided to keep the end decks short, and step the main mast through a thwart. This would allow me to fit a mast gate so that I might more easily step or ship the mast afloat. The heel of the mast is set into the step mortise, and the mast is pushed upright through the open gate. Once in position, a heavy pin will be slid into place behind the mast, closing the gate. This is all quite a bit easier than standing up with a mast held high, and trying to get it down through a hole in the deck and into the mortise in the step, with the boat rolling and pitching to boot. The substantial lever of a flailing mast can tear up the whole front end of the boat! So I laid out the deck to stop just short of the mast forward. The mizzen, being a much smaller and lighter stick, will pass through the aft deck.<br />
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I cut the main mast step from more of my dumpster fir, notching it around the stem knee and butting up tight against the forward frame. The mizzen step sits right on top of the aft stem. I glued and screwed the steps down with epoxy and bronze screws.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kuf85aYtlq0/TWEs8j0fFaI/AAAAAAAAAgY/Dj_uCbjXFX4/s1600/mde_maststepweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kuf85aYtlq0/TWEs8j0fFaI/AAAAAAAAAgY/Dj_uCbjXFX4/s320/mde_maststepweb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The main mast step notches around the stem knee...</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R9WYel7y3pk/TWEtDoNtJ5I/AAAAAAAAAgc/8G0Dfc3CbEs/s1600/mde_mizstep3web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R9WYel7y3pk/TWEtDoNtJ5I/AAAAAAAAAgc/8G0Dfc3CbEs/s320/mde_mizstep3web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>...while the mizzen step sits on top. </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Next, I got set up to fit the seat risers. At the forward thwart location, I leveled across to the side of the boat from the dagger trunk (I double-checked that the boat itself was still level athwartship). I tacked battens in the boat port and starboard, temporarily nailing these into the frames when they were pulled up level. To make this easier to do, I cut out temporary flake board thwarts, resting each end on the riser battens with a spirit level on top (I'll use these later to make patterns for the real thwarts).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oHjVQNFJ3-Y/TWEuEXnQh-I/AAAAAAAAAgg/YxojDUICawQ/s1600/mde_seatweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oHjVQNFJ3-Y/TWEuEXnQh-I/AAAAAAAAAgg/YxojDUICawQ/s320/mde_seatweb.jpg" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leveling the riser battens.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
At the aft rowing thwart, I nailed the battens in a set distance below the sheer (at proper rowing height), again leveling across the boat. I then hauled the battens into place at both ends of the boat, pulling the forward end as high as I could to maximize the bury of the mast (the mast partner rests on the risers). This all took quite a bit of fiddling to get right. There is a lot of twist in the riser, and the battens don't want to lay flat on the frames, compounding the difficulty of accurately determining the correct height. I was afraid the risers themselves would be hard to bend into the boat, but they were relatively easy to get in, and I clamped, then screwed them without glue to the frames at the correct height. They will be removed again to paint the interior, then re-hung with glue later. Finally, I fitted the aft most thwart pattern, set just forward of the end deck, and some rough approximations of the side benches.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2L82PBMY33M/TWEuHfWNb1I/AAAAAAAAAgk/rOPNMAT2P98/s1600/mde_seat2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2L82PBMY33M/TWEuHfWNb1I/AAAAAAAAAgk/rOPNMAT2P98/s320/mde_seat2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The 'midship side benches are quite long, so I fitted a knee in the middle of their span, to help support them. With these all in place, I was really able to get a feel for the interior structure of the boat, and I like it! There are plenty of seating options available to trim the boat, depending on crew. The push-pull tiller will have a screw-on extension for solo sailing, allowing me to move close to the middle of the boat. It can be removed for the skipper to slide aft when more crew come aboard. I have to say that I quite like this type of steering, having used it for years in my sailing canoes.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJEBN9IqIRc/TWEvHFcQJmI/AAAAAAAAAgo/t6HfBfXjg_Q/s1600/mde_seat4web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pJEBN9IqIRc/TWEvHFcQJmI/AAAAAAAAAgo/t6HfBfXjg_Q/s320/mde_seat4web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The actual seat risers are fitted, and knees are added to support the side benches at mid-span.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pG43lTfhErw/TWEvJtzeQLI/AAAAAAAAAgs/IlQXoJq-3kE/s1600/mde_seat5web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pG43lTfhErw/TWEvJtzeQLI/AAAAAAAAAgs/IlQXoJq-3kE/s320/mde_seat5web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Close up view of the side bench knee and riser.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Now, its on to the deck beams. Once the extent of the end decking was known, I installed the full length beams in the end of the boat. I glued little short blocks to the inwale, to which I would glue and screw these frames. The frames could also be let into the inwales, but I chose not to do it that way. The compound bevels on the beam ends were cut quickly with a hand saw. I left the beams wide until they fit snugly, and were screwed in place. I then scribed them to the deck camber with a template, removed them and cut them to shape, and glued them back in permanently.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o_o_4Cf83go/TWEwGu3ag1I/AAAAAAAAAgw/bkqQo6NGF1k/s1600/mde_dekbmweb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o_o_4Cf83go/TWEwGu3ag1I/AAAAAAAAAgw/bkqQo6NGF1k/s320/mde_dekbmweb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Deck beams are fitted, then marked out to the camber and cut out.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The little short washboard beams, or knees if you prefer, were a little trickier to fit, notching over the inwale and extending down along the inside of the sheer plank a couple of inches. This shape gives them enough strength, when glued and screwed to the frames, to stand alone without angle braces of any sort. Like the full length beams, I left them over size and temporarily screwed them all to the boat. To determine their exact length, I sprung in a batten from end to end, terminating at the full length end deck beams. At the same time, I put in thin ply template stock at each end, and bent a drafting spline to the shape of the oval deck ends, fairing this into the batten. This gave me the exact shape of the complete deck.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rSqOnhXwems/TWExq6SKeSI/AAAAAAAAAhA/TrqUXmRFjfU/s1600/mde_dekbm2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rSqOnhXwems/TWExq6SKeSI/AAAAAAAAAhA/TrqUXmRFjfU/s320/mde_dekbm2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Carlin batten and oval coaming template.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I marked all of the knees, then removed them and laid out their shapes. There is a longitudinal timber called a carlin, which defines the outer cockpit edge and supports the decking, much like the inwale does out at the sheer. I like to rest the carlin in a notch cut into the knees. I cut this notch in each knee, using the layout line that I marked from the batten. I then marked and cut a curve in the underside of each knee. When the knees were all cut, I glued and screwed them into the boat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OxIV3h24fR0/TWEyp-VaRLI/AAAAAAAAAhE/nFYdzmoJppw/s1600/mde_dekbm4web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OxIV3h24fR0/TWEyp-VaRLI/AAAAAAAAAhE/nFYdzmoJppw/s320/mde_dekbm4web.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The deck knees are all glued in.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43tHHK8r8f4/TWEy_ZxVRaI/AAAAAAAAAhI/79OwqW_WEsE/s1600/mde_dekbm6web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-43tHHK8r8f4/TWEy_ZxVRaI/AAAAAAAAAhI/79OwqW_WEsE/s320/mde_dekbm6web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Knees are notched for the carlins.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Before going any further, I need to stop and paint the interior. Any other structure in the boat will make it too hard to paint around. The carlins in particular would be in the way, and I'll also wait on the oval deck framing and the king planks for the same reason. I can't wait to paint the inside!Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-13449876749574667322011-01-09T19:43:00.000-05:002011-01-09T19:43:56.692-05:00Building The Matinicus Double Ender- Part 6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpEcC8NFfI/AAAAAAAAAdI/68VR1SjrOv8/s1600/mdeslpln.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpEcC8NFfI/AAAAAAAAAdI/68VR1SjrOv8/s320/mdeslpln.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The lug yawl sail plan is finalized</i></span> .</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Its hard to believe that almost a year has passed since the last post. Once spring comes around, there is so much work to do at the <a href="http://sebagocanoeclub.org/sailing.html" style="color: blue;">club</a> in preparation for the sailing season, and then the season itself (which this year continued on until nearly Thanksgiving). Six months go by without any progress on the peapod! And so I look forward to the holidays as a time to re-connect with boat building.I had always intended to rig this boat as a lug yawl, and finally got around to drawing up the sail plan. I also decided to substitute a dagger board for the pivoting centerboard. The dagger board is lighter, simpler, and takes up less space than a centerboard, and when rowing, a plug can be dropped in the slot to eliminate speed robbing turbulence in the trunk. This conversion is not as simple as it might seem, as any changes to rig or underbody can affect the balance of the boat, producing a heavier than normal weather helm, or a possibly dangerous lee helm. The thwart layout and rowing positions determine, to some extent, the position of the dagger trunk, as thwart and trunk are mutually supportive structurally. Once the balance point of the hull is arrived at (by balancing a scaled cutout of the underbody on an awl and marking the point), the rig is drawn and its geometric center is found. I played around with mast placement, rake, sail shape, etc. and made many back and forth adjustments with the sails and the dagger board until I arrived at what I hope will be a well balanced boat.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>So its on to the interior! I built the dagger trunk first, and made it a good four inches longer fore and aft than the board itself, still hedging my bets as regards the balance until the sailing trials. I'll fill in the excess slot once I determine the exact position of the board. The trunk is so simple! Just two posts, which extend through the plank keel, two sides, and two bed logs cut to the slight curve of the inside bottom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFkc7VnWI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/WsW2N1i7yx4/s1600/mdedag_2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFkc7VnWI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/WsW2N1i7yx4/s320/mdedag_2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The completed trunk, upside down. The posts will extend through the keel.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFja2Rk5I/AAAAAAAAAdM/7zqHnr9sOeE/s1600/mdedag_1web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="274" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFja2Rk5I/AAAAAAAAAdM/7zqHnr9sOeE/s320/mdedag_1web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Slot pattern for a long top-bearing router bit.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I made a router jig to cut the slot from inside the boat, and I left the ends of the slot plumb even though the posts are raked to avoid chiseling the angles through 1-1/2" of keel. A wedge will be epoxied in (one from inside, one from outside) to close up the gap. Very simple.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFm0la-yI/AAAAAAAAAdc/GyJCakMP060/s1600/mdedag_5web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="274" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFm0la-yI/AAAAAAAAAdc/GyJCakMP060/s320/mdedag_5web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A wedge will be epoxied in to fill the gap.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I blue-taped the parts of the slot that must remain clean, and then glued and clamped the trunk into the boat, being careful to keep it plumb athwartship.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFlHvDSEI/AAAAAAAAAdU/KCCVa4ANiRs/s1600/mdedag_3web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFlHvDSEI/AAAAAAAAAdU/KCCVa4ANiRs/s320/mdedag_3web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The area of the slot to remain clean is masked off.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFl69W6_I/AAAAAAAAAdY/I6qztJ9e9rI/s1600/mdedag_4web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpFl69W6_I/AAAAAAAAAdY/I6qztJ9e9rI/s320/mdedag_4web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The trunk is clamped to the boat through the slot.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The frames are next, and I chose to use a futtock style frame of spanish cedar, glued up in halves with short pieces to optimize grain direction. I settled on 5 frames, built to span sheer to sheer and set perpendicular to the centerline like a bulkhead, and joggled to fit the laps.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpNdjeWz4I/AAAAAAAAAfM/a-FV0PJBIpQ/s1600/mdefrm_3web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpNdjeWz4I/AAAAAAAAAfM/a-FV0PJBIpQ/s320/mdefrm_3web.jpg" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The first layer of the spanish cedar frame-halves.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpOnHq0d-I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/T0i8DnAZ2O4/s1600/mdefrm_4web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpOnHq0d-I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/T0i8DnAZ2O4/s320/mdefrm_4web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Layer two spans the previous butt-joints.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I'll confess right up front that the bevels eluded me. It would have been much simpler to set the frames square to the planking, but I wanted a continuous frame, dory style, and so paid the price. My method of finding the frame shapes is quite simple, and avoids spiling. I cut a scrap of thin (1/8") ply close to the inside shape, but ignoring the laps. I then hot-glued a few small blocks in the hull, and tack welded the rough pattern to the blocks with more hot glue.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpLPuVtIyI/AAAAAAAAAds/ZhK5TXtCEPc/s1600/mdefrm_1web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="229" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpLPuVtIyI/AAAAAAAAAds/ZhK5TXtCEPc/s320/mdefrm_1web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A thin ply pattern is hot-glued to small blocks exactly in the frames intended location.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I next ripped up strips of the same thin ply, cut them to length, and hot-glued them to the pattern board at each plank. This is very fast, and extremely accurate. As long as the pattern is set exactly where you want the frame to land, then the frame will fit every time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpMR-8CnKI/AAAAAAAAAeo/7U7MLiN6QiY/s1600/mdefrm_2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpMR-8CnKI/AAAAAAAAAeo/7U7MLiN6QiY/s320/mdefrm_2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Straight-edged strips fit snugly to the planks.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpPQhzciyI/AAAAAAAAAfU/XN9tIrbAx0k/s1600/mdefrm_5web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpPQhzciyI/AAAAAAAAAfU/XN9tIrbAx0k/s320/mdefrm_5web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shape is traced onto the glued-up frame blank, and sawn out.</td></tr>
</tbody></table> I use the same pattern for both sides of the hull, but I do try it out on the other side and make notes of any slight discrepancies. Now for those tricky bevels. I cut the frames square, tight on one edge, but leaving a gap at the other.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpP6aBjaiI/AAAAAAAAAfk/bIOhHo-7J7M/s1600/mdefrm_6web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpP6aBjaiI/AAAAAAAAAfk/bIOhHo-7J7M/s320/mdefrm_6web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The frame fits tight on one edge, bust is open in way of the bevels.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I ripped up a pile of variously beveled strips on the bandsaw, and used this stock to add the bevels to the frame, rather than cutting the bevels away. I release-taped the hull under each frame half, and glued these bevels to the frame halves right in the boat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpQYjE_f-I/AAAAAAAAAfo/Z7Ckj0g9LuA/s1600/mdefrm_8web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpQYjE_f-I/AAAAAAAAAfo/Z7Ckj0g9LuA/s320/mdefrm_8web.jpg" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Beveled wedges are glued in.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> When the glue cured, I removed the frames and cleaned everything up, before installing the frames permanently in the boat. The end result is structurally identical to a sawn bevel, even if the method is somewhat unorthodox. I will admit to being a trifle sheepish about it, but I'm quite satisfied with the end result. The frame halves are connected together across the bottom with a final piece, then the inside curve is sawn to shape and beveled in one piece before installing in the boat. Don't forget to cut the limbers!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpRIfE8LxI/AAAAAAAAAfs/04EqBrVR6XA/s1600/mdefrm_7web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpRIfE8LxI/AAAAAAAAAfs/04EqBrVR6XA/s320/mdefrm_7web.jpg" width="320" /></a></i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Before the frames are glued in, the hull is taped off for easy clean up.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The frame spans are too large to adequately support a 3/8" thick floor board, so I fitted short floors (timbers) between each frame. I went ahead and made patterns for all the floorboards while I was at it. The floors were glued in just like the frames.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpRu5uI-dI/AAAAAAAAAfw/fSK71HADEu0/s1600/mdeflr_1web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpRu5uI-dI/AAAAAAAAAfw/fSK71HADEu0/s320/mdeflr_1web.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Floor board patterns were made at the same time as the timbers.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpSPighz7I/AAAAAAAAAf0/YuveRgGfPZw/s1600/mdeflr_2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpSPighz7I/AAAAAAAAAf0/YuveRgGfPZw/s320/mdeflr_2web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A finished floor timber, ready to install (note the limbers).</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpSjnDTNgI/AAAAAAAAAf4/3nloVsqQ84g/s1600/mdeflr_3web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpSjnDTNgI/AAAAAAAAAf4/3nloVsqQ84g/s320/mdeflr_3web.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Floor timbers are glued into the boat. This completes the framing!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I installed the sheer clamps (inwales) after the frames, notching the frame heads before they went in the boat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpTLWCsdbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/d1vHNddh6tM/s1600/mdeinwl_1web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpTLWCsdbI/AAAAAAAAAf8/d1vHNddh6tM/s320/mdeinwl_1web.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The inwales (sheer clamps) are scarfed to length.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> I scarfed up a plank of spanish cedar to length, ripped out the pair, and fitted them to the boat. I did this by myself, and it is a bit tricky with epoxy all over a 16 foot long noodle which gets surprisingly stiff and contrary when forced into a deep compound bend. But it worked out well. The notched frame heads really help hold the timber in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpToU02sII/AAAAAAAAAgA/wr-eYvwqtPs/s1600/mdeinwl_2web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpToU02sII/AAAAAAAAAgA/wr-eYvwqtPs/s320/mdeinwl_2web.jpg" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Inwales are clamped to the sheer. It takes a lot of clamps!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table> There are no breasthooks in this boat. She will be half decked, with an oval coaming. I like to fit a longitudinal beam (like a deck king plank) let into the deck beams and going all the way to the stems, taking the place of a breasthook, and strengthening the centerline. This longitudinal beam can also double as a mast partner like on my crab skiff <a href="http://jimluton.com/boats/" style="color: blue;">Cricket</a>. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpUgS-x-JI/AAAAAAAAAgE/mec7GOdFVx0/s1600/3p_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="274" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GnklFTJIHjA/TSpUgS-x-JI/AAAAAAAAAgE/mec7GOdFVx0/s320/3p_6.jpg" width="320" /></a></i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Different boat! This shows the deck framing I like to use on Cricket.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>We'll end here for now. I'm working on the final deck and furniture plan now, and fitting the seat risers. By next time, the interior should be shaping up well. Stay tuned...Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-847984305855777894.post-45017792006180795122010-02-14T16:26:00.001-05:002010-02-14T16:30:10.099-05:00<i style="color: #783f04;"><span style="font-size: large;">Building the Matinicus Double Ender- Part 5</span></i><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">To view Part 1, Click <a href="http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-boatbuilding-project.html" style="color: blue;"><i>Here</i></a>.</span><br />
<br />
Rollover!<br />
One of the more gratifying aspects of boat building, amidst all of the hard work, is the much anticipated rollover. But first, some thought has to be given in preparation for the event. I decided to build a luxury cradle for this boat, on wheels so that she can be rolled around, and as nearly level both fore and aft and athwartship as I could make it. I fitted female molds at two stations, joggled to fit over the laps, and carpeted. This took a little fiddling to get right, but once they were fitted and sitting astride the hull, I set up my laser and shot a level reference line on both molds. I cut the mold bottoms parallel to this reference, pulled them off and built the cradle, adding nice wheels with brakes. Before freeing up the hull from the building jig, I made sure that all of the stations were marked off inside for future reference, and while I had the laser out, I shot the load waterline on the outside.<br />
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I decided to flip the boat with three molds left in, but unscrewed the rest, and made sure the boat wasn't stuck anywhere! With help from my assistant, Ashok, plus Robert and Eric from neighboring shops, we lifted the boat up and flipped her onto the cradle. I had not thought the cradle all the way through somehow, and consequently the boat's amidship depth was too much for the cradle.<br />
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Ashok and I quickly cut the cradle down, and lifted her back on. Nice! the ability to roll the boat around is a real plus. I temp-screwed two of my lining battens around the sheer to even out any local plywood humps or flats, and added braces across the boat to hold the beam and shape intact, then removed the rest of the molds.<br />
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I was finally able to see the whole shape, and this really is a sweet hull! As I was looking over the hull that evening, it occurred to me that there is much more interior volume than I had imagined there would be.<br />
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I also realized that I was looking at a potentially blank canvas, and that I can really do anything with the boat that I want. I had fully intended to finish this boat out as traditionally as possible, with frames and solid thwarts, etc, but I may play around with the interior some to create a solo camping beach cruiser. This might entail an off-center board and a level, flat sole, with enclosed side benches for stowage, and bulkheads in the ends. A very different boat on the inside, with perhaps more potential for cruising than the traditional layout affords. Maybe not... There is time to consider all of this as I work out some rig details. Stay tuned.Jimbohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10568679105523039096noreply@blogger.com2